Set on the banks of the picturesque countryside town, Tata's Old Lake, between the castle and the Esterházy mansion, Platán Gourmet made history as Hungary's first countryside restaurant to snag two Michelin stars. The restaurant itself is in a building that used to house estate servants. István Pesti joined the group in 2015, and Platán split into its fine dining and bistro sections in 2020, with those coveted two stars arriving in 2022.
Fine dining restaurants face challenges worldwide, and Hungary is no exception. Recent economic shifts mean fewer people can splurge on a multi-course dinner with matching wines. It's no longer just about perfect service, flawless ingredients, and incredible skill.
FINE DINING RESTAURANTS NOW NEED TO OFFER SOMETHING TRULY UNIQUE AND NEW TO STAND OUT.
Platán Gourmet immediately sets itself apart by its very location: the countryside. It's an easy trip from Budapest – bypass rush hour, and you arrive to Tata in just 45 minutes. You'll find it in a beautifully renovated, utterly peaceful, and historically atmospheric area right by the Old Lake. Dinner unfolds across various spots. The welcome bites, essentially a calling card, are served in a relaxed, bright room overlooking the lake. The service is elegantly classic. Many modern fine dining places favour a more laid-back style, but Platán smartly retains a touch of that traditional country estate elegance, letting its heritage shine through. Yet, the welcome bite itself is refreshingly modern: a trio featuring black pudding, octopus, and gin and tonic, signalling that regardless of its countryside setting, international flavours play a significant role here.
The main part of your meal doesn't happen in the welcome room, but in either the green or blue salon. The green salon is ideal if you enjoy observing the kitchen's behind-the-scenes action through the open pass. The blue salon, on the other hand, is perfect for a more intimate dining experience.
The menu officially features 12 courses, though you'll receive considerably more. This count doesn't include the three welcome courses or the two amuse-bouches you'll also be served. You can opt for classic wine pairings, but
WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND TRYING THE ALCOHOL-FREE DRINK PAIRING IF YOU CAN.
Fermentation and house-made juices have come on leaps and bounds recently. In a fine dining setting, it's particularly fascinating to see what they conjure up from various ingredients. Alongside simple elderflower, it's perfectly normal to find things like horseradish, beetroot, or even cocoa beans on the ingredients list.
Platán's menu is consistently evolving, blending Hungarian, Asian, and French influences. Chef Pesti István uses French techniques on Hungarian cuisine, with Asian touches seamlessly woven throughout. There are always truly Hungarian dishes, like their current fish chowder, showcasing the nation's culinary essence.
Seasonality is crucial. Some dishes are replaced entirely, others adapt ingredients. Brief seasonal ingredients, like elderflower, are also embraced. The full menu shifts every 3 to 6 months, though dishes rotate more often. The Japanese egg custard, chawanmushi, remains a permanent fixture since opening.
ANOTHER PERMANENT FIXTURE AT PLATÁN IS THEIR TURN-OF-THE-CENTURY BELGIAN COFFEE MAKER:
This is used to serve various seasonal consommés.
Currently, it's a rich duck consommé with plenty of green herbs, though mushroom and chicken versions have also appeared. This steampunk-looking device isn't just for show; its pour-over method is perfect for infusing the soup with the herbs' full aroma. These elegant yet playful touches really suit Platán. For instance, the device that puffs white truffle smoke before an amuse-bouche arrives – resembling an old spray gun – perfectly sets the expected atmosphere. It shows that even something thoroughly professional can have a sense of humour.
The menu composition clearly aims to be as light on the stomach as possible, which is no small feat with so many courses. Starters alternate nicely, with a more substantial course always followed by something lighter. There's plenty of fish too. As you reach the peak with a main course combining wagyu beef, duck liver, and bream, you then get a refreshing, light, tangy rhubarb and sorrel ice cream dessert. The main dessert is also a soufflé, which, though theoretically light, can still be quite a challenge at this stage of the meal.
Platán Gourmet's dinner evening is a beautifully composed experience, with minute details expertly woven together by a professional front-of-house and kitchen team. The setting itself encourages an overnight stay – if you haven't planned for one, at least take a relaxing stroll around the lake before hitting the motorway.
CONTACT
Plantain Gourmet
(Cover photo: Platán Gourmet)
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