This former Italian restaurant has recently undergone more than just a few cosmetic changes but a complete facelift. Upon entering, it feels elegant yet relaxed, modern yet homely, vibrant yet laid-back.
Argentine music and a portrait of Eva Perón set the tone, with a football shirt signed by Maradona soon to follow. The visitor already senses that they will be back, even before ordering.
To the
left is a casual and well-equipped lounge-style bar, featuring top-shelf drinks
and decent gins, while a wine cooler is packed mainly with champagnes and South-American labels.
Opposite are sofas, a fireplace and the kitchen, to the right the restaurant itself, with a friendly, bright, large interior with a glassed-in terrace that can be opened from all sides. There should be a great atmosphere in summer, when a parrilla-style barbecue will be connected to the huge garden.
Argentine barbecue
Parrilla is a charcoal- or
wood-fired grill typical of Argentinian cuisine, centrepiece of weekend asado gatherings, the regular grilled meats are accompanied by veal
sweetbreads, sausages and blood sausage.
Before we
looked at the menu, we calculated that the bill would be hefty, as Barrio, set
in an exclusive Buda neighbourhood, relies on quality ingredients.
But indeed not, it is absolutely fair, affordable, even great value for money. And
all for South American, in fact authentic meat-based Argentine, cuisine,
hand-kneaded empanadas, Peruvian ceviche, vegan steaks and child-proof dishes such
as pizza or breaded meats fried with tomato sauce, cheese and ham.
Remember, more
than half the people in Argentina have Italian roots. The pervasive Basque
influence clearly comes from the chef, Gábor Bóné, the former owner of the
Bontxo tapas bar.
We wanted to nibble and sample at the same time, so we asked for several appetisers at once. All were very satisfying, the portions larger than usual tapas sizes. Provoleta cheese (HUF 2,190), rolled in a cast-iron pan, set the bar so high we were worried that the other dishes might be disappointing, but no such thing. An amazing cavalcade of flavours came right out of the pan.
Locally
made Argentine stuffed pasties, empanadas with beef, chicken, cheese-and-onion,
ricotta-and-spinach and sweetcorn fillings are also available (three pieces/HUF
1,990), without the need for dips.
The complex flavours of morcipán (Argentine blood sausage in bread, HUF 1,690) gave the impression that the ingredients had to be filled and seasoned separately, as you can’t find this kind of thing elsewhere in Hungary.
Equally, the Peruvian ceviche (HUF 3,590) is unlike anything we’ve tasted before in Budapest. Leche de tigre (‘tiger milk’) from the shade-fish or sashal is actually a concentrated juice in which vegetables, spices and fish essence are combined – along with Peruvian corn.
Knowing Zoltán Konrády, we knew we couldn’t pass up the chance of steak, so we asked for ojo de bife (300gr of Argentine rib-eye with mixed garnish, HUF 6,900). Not only was the meat perfect, but every element of the dish, too.
To close, we were offered a surprise dessert (HUF 1,790) of caramelised pineapple steak with homemade dulce de leche, a slow-baked, caramelised milk cream. Though sugary, it wasn’t gooey, and had a silky taste.
All in all, this was a great experience, even the meat-free dishes were complex and tasty. In the upscale barrio of Hűvösvölgy, Hidegkút, Nagykovácsi, Remeteszőlős and Solymár, locals have been waiting for somewhere like Barrio to open for some time. Expect tables to fill up fast.
Venue information
Barrio
1028 Budapest, Hidegkúti út 81
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Open: Wed-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-5pm