Ruin bar, live venue and BBQ spot in one – A Nagy Kohó beckons beyond Budapest - English

In a ruin-bar setting, burgers sizzle, live music blasts and small-batch beers are sunk at an unspoilt edge of the forest just outside Budapest. Close enough to still be on the city's bus network, this is Nagykovácsi, a few kilometres north of the Buda hills, and this is A Nagy Kohó, a great new communal venue where outdoor relaxation is key.

Roland Herczeg first dreamed of A Nagy Kohó in 2016 and, with the help of another local, Imre Kuti, has been developing this concept of an open ruin pub. The location is ideal, just beyond the city limits where cyclists trek out for tours of Nagykovácsi, Remeteszőlős and Adyliget. Now there’s a reward at the end of their journey.

Once word of a new live venue had spread, musicians inundated the place with booking requests – the calendar is already full until January. Equipment has sourced bit by bit, furnishings likewise – the truth is that the whole project started with so little money that acquaintances and neighbours donated random items in various stages of repair. No two chairs are alike, and that’s what gives the whole thing its charm.

The guys also have environmental awareness in mind and order foodstuffs from producers within short reach. Kitchen manager is Benedek Rönky, the pitmaster who has transformed the former ad-hoc barbecue into a regular BBQ.

The main offer includes BBQ ribs, pulled pork and shredded-duck sandwiches (each HUF 1,990), homemade coleslaw salad (HUF 390), Mac and cheese (HUF 590), with a weekly changing menu often featuring BLT or BBQ burgers (HUF 2,190-2,290).

At weekends, additional specialities out of the smoker include beef cheek, porchetta and the local butcher’s favourite sausage.

To accompany, on six taps, are small-batch beers by Budapest’s Fehér Nyúl, including the house Kohó Pale Ale.

A Nagy Kohó is not only riding the wave of ruin-bar nostalgia but so original it’s almost like a new beginning. Sitting here for a beer – even with your dog on a leash – practically feels like a trip back in time to the heroic age of the first ruin bars, only in the unique milieu of these surroundings. And all only 15 minutes by regular 63 bus from Hűvösvölgy to Teleki-Tisza-kastély.