New gastrobar Marciéknál: Where lawyers loosen their ties and friends loosen their tongues

Szemere utca, near Alkotmány utca... Large, blocky buildings, little by way of urban green, people in suits. Nevertheless, everyone needs to eat, and everyone has been young at least once, so a lively family business like Marciéknál fits the bill. 

Owner Marcell (’Marci’) Kocsis worked alongside famed Győr chef László Edvi and then at Jamie’s in the Castle District. His professional background is supported by a personal one, too, such as the summers he spent at Lake Balaton with his grandmother working as the director of the Panoráma Hotel in Siófok.

Personal connections influence the supply chain, too, as on the meat platter (HUF 2,350), you find cold cuts from Écs, for example, by Pannonhalma, where iconic butcher, old Adolf Tatai, has been an acquaintance since childhood. The prime meat presented on the board with sourdough bread and marinated seasonal vegetables is undoubtedly the master’s marinated ham, but the homemade salami balls with cream cheese also evoke memories of a Hungarian childhood.

Friends and family also come into the picture where other delights are concerned. The pairing of tasty, succulent Göncz Ricsi ribs sous vide (2,650 HUF) with coleslaw, for example, is the result of two mates, some quarantine cabbage and the recipe that resulted from it. Ricsi can be found in the kitchen, happy to take the credit.

Soup is, of course, the epitome of homemade, homely dishes, and here it is found in the form of a cold mushroom variety (HUF 950). The mushrooms are steamed on a caramelised cane-sugar base with garlic and thyme, and then blended with cream. The result, together with the cheddar croutons and roast mushrooms, is a delicacy that evokes both a pâté and a soup, with a hint of sweetness underlining the flavours.

One of the best qualities at Marciéknál is that no matter how much time you have, they always have something that allows you to relax even more. You can get a decent, dark-roasted coffee (HUF 550-850) with a sandwich (HUF 950) but you have more time, you can roll up your sleeves and tuck into a delicious lunch with a healthier Caesar (HUF 1,650) or couscous salad (HUF 1,750)

If you're in need of a little pampering, there’s those Göncz Ricsi ribs or the extra cheddar hot dog with jalapeño (HUF 2,450). True gourmets can try the seasonal offer (currently HUF 2,450, the ingredients changing by definition). 

And if you’re after sociable conversation with colleagues or friends in the evening, you can order a cheese (HUF 2,250) or meat platter (HUF 2,350) to go with the well-chosen beers, wines and spirits. All to be consumed in simple surroundings, no frills.

With friends or family, in the course of a stressful working day or relaxing in the evening, the welcome and quality of fare remain the same.