The main public park in town, Városliget (or City Park) was the central venue of the millennial celebrations of 1896. It may not be the largest park in Budapest (the title goes to Népliget), but it certainly is the most revered, family-, sport-, and pet-friendly. A massive redevelopment, the Liget project, has already seen the installation of a dog park, new sports courts and illuminated running track, with a House of Hungarian Music, the new Museum of Ethnography and the National Museum Research and Storage Centre to follow. These features will change the timeless character of this sprawling green zone, something that doesn’t sit well with all locals, and a protest camp has even been set up. Certain landmarks will remain in place, however, most notably the ornate Széchenyi Baths and, just over the road, the Budapest Zoo, incorporating features from the former Amusement Park that once stood alongside. Another major child-friendly attraction here is Budapest Circus, providing old-school entertainment. During the summer, you can row on the lake surrounding faux historic Vajdahunyad Castle, which houses the fusty Museum of Agriculture. Rowing, and skating, also take place on the larger watery expanse nearest Heroes’ Square – as the atmospheric City Park Ice Rink, it operates through the depths of winter, the busy Christmas period limited to season-ticket holders only. After skating, you can have a warming drink at the Városliget Café.