Ferenciek tere (‘Franciscans’ Square’) is situated in front of Elizabeth Bridge, a constant blur of pedestrians and traffic heading down adjoining Szabad sajtó út. Its main landmarks, the twin buildings of the Klotild Palace on opposite sides of the road, should soon change the character of the square from ornate fin-de-siècle to global contemporary. Major international hotel chains Hyatt and Marriott are moving into each of these facing landmarks, the former in the space once filled by the former Buddha-Bar Hotel and the dazzling Párisi Udvar arcade. The Inner-City Church of St Francis and ELTE university library should still be standing on Ferenciek tere for many years to come, but how long authentically retro café the Ibolya espresso and Habsburg-era restaurant Kárpátia can survive the square’s transformation remains to be seen.