For Hungarians, 1 November is a sombre event involving flowers, candles and silent remembrance. In Mexico, it’s a two-day fiesta of loud merriment underscored by specific traditions and characters. To find out more, we visited the Mexican Embassy, where Ambassador Rosario Molinero and Cultural Attaché Alejandro Vázquez showed us round its collection of artefacts related to the Day of the Dead and the huge altar decorated each November in honour of those who have passed. This year, this includes Hungarian sculptor Pál Kepenyes, who lived and worked in Mexico from the 1960s onwards.

In Hungary, the Day of the Dead (2 November) – adopted from ancient Rome by early Christianity – is a Christian religious holiday preceded by All Saints’ (1 November). One is a day of remembrance of the souls who have already been saved, the next day is for those not yet granted salvation.

These souls are still waiting for salvation in a transitional zone. However, the Day of the Dead is also observed by non-believers, so it has gradually become a general celebration independent of Christianity to remember our dead. And not on 2 November, but on the 1st. This is when Hungarians go to the cemetery, put flowers and wreaths on graves, light a candle and quietly, sombrely, remember.

In Mexico, not only Christianity but also the Day of the Dead is different. All comparisons pretty much end at the point when they go to the cemetery bearing flowers.

La Catrina

In Mexico, the pagan religion of the original natives blends with the Catholic faith rooted in the conquering Spaniards, giving rise to peculiar saints like Santa Muerte – not recognised by the Catholic Church – and symbolic figures like La Catrina

Both are female, appearing as a skeleton and symbolising death (a feminine noun in Spanish). La Muerte is tied to a sacred and not a specific holiday, while La Catrina is the female figure tied in with the Mexican Day of the Dead.

A Mexican copper engraver, José Guadalupe Posada, invented and created the figure of the elegant skeletal lady in 1910, which at the time had little to do with Day of the Dead – it was made for political purposes. But then came the painter Diego Rivera, husband of Frida Kahlo, who not only repeatedly displayed the skeletons in his paintings, but even named the figure La Catrina (ie a well-dressed woman). 

The ornately colourful lady, despite being bizarre and grotesque, became a particularly cheerful-looking figure to represent the Day of the Dead, celebrated over two days in Mexico, 1-2 November. In this Latin-American country, the celebration of death is not just about remembering the dead, which they do more loudly, but they also celebrate life.

La Catrina’s figure has traditionally encouraged people to live as long as possible, until death arrives, however unexpectedly. She encourages music, singing and dancing – live life to the full, eat, drink and be merry. Mexicans, therefore, head to the cemeteries for two days, where they decorate the graves not only with flowers but in pretty colours and patterns. They take their dead their favourite food and drink, they sing, dance and celebrate. 

At the cemetery, they not only meet the dead once more, but also show them that, in the spirit of La Catrina, they are as lively as can be. Many also spend the night at the cemetery as, in any case, the celebration will go on through the next day.

Cake or death

One of the important symbolic structures of the Day of the Dead in Mexico is the multi-layered altar, set up in memory of the dead. Not only will candles and photos of the deceased appear, but flowers, food (including pan de muerto, Mexico's cake of the dead), drinks (their favourite tipple in a separate clay pot), fruit, seeds, coloured stones and candies with skulls (featuring the names of a living relative or friend to attract good luck). 

In addition, there are decorative elements, objects made of corn, the daily used things of the dead, salt water in pots and papel picados, small pieces of hanging coloured paper. A crucifix crowns the altar at the end.

The Mexican Embassy decorates its altar like every year to honour the Day of the Dead. This year, it was primarily for Hungarian sculptor and goldsmith Pál Kepenyes, who passed away in February, at the age of 94.

Kepenyes was an artist who had to emigrate Hungary because of his active participation in the 1956 Uprising. After Austria, he lived and studied in France then, in the early 1960s, arrived in Mexico City. From here he moved later to Acapulco, where he died earlier this year. 

This renowned sculptor was known for his Surrealist-Expressionist style. He achieved wide popularity beyond Mexico, as celebrities such as Jackie Kennedy, Liz Taylor and Bill Gates have bought his jewellery. His works have also been exhibited in London, New York and Berlin.

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