Instigated by the buzzy BÉLA, Bartók Béla út, the main avenue leading from Liberty Bridge to south Buda, has sparked into life. Now Gergő Szuhay, Olivér Sas and Adrián Fülöp have turned their attention to another enterprise closer to Szent Gellért tér: MITZI.
Homely and familiar, as if the backdrop for a revered Hungarian film, MITZI suits the mood of Bartók Béla út, if somewhat less bohemian than BÉLA. This, say Gergő and Olivér, was precisely the aim.
MITZI was actually built on an exhibition space, in the Bartók 1 Gallery. This has proved advantageous: a wide marble staircase, a huge copper counter, bare concrete walls, fine artwork and furniture similar to a ruin bar’s. This laid-back approach also applies to the breakfast menu: eclectic, relaxed à la carte, with a global selection that changes every two or three weeks.
You can also expect a great range of drinks and not just alcohol. They make their own Brazilian-Guatemalan blend at Matthew's Nezvál 42 Coffee Roastery, alongside rarities such as matcha and beetroot latte. The list also features labels by White Rabbit, key artisanal brewers here in Budapest.
The main menu, though not particularly long, is also in a different category to BÉLA’s: in addition to snacks and tapas, you also have more complex dishes. Healthy dishes and Hungarian favourites sit side by side, like grandma used to make, as the category is titled, at around 2,000 forints. Currently this includes classics such as chicken paprikás but this will rotate. And then there’s the international offerings…
In-house legend has it that Mitzi is a well-travelled dame, who brings back authentic recipes from wherever she goes. Teheran was her latest adventure, hence the eggs with mint-dill, herb omelettes, the duck leg flavoured with nuts and pomegranate syrup served with saffron rice mixed with dried fruit. Hence, also, the baklava with rose water and pistachio. And if we doubt Mitzi’s yen for globe-trotting, her next jaunt is Iceland.
More than anything, though, MITZI does breakfast. There may be plenty of other options nearby, but the little by way of Eggs Benedict or Hungarian tomato-and-pepper stew, lecsó. You can also find great granola (1,450 HUF) with crunchy cereals, creamy Greek yoghurt, fruit and honey, or tapioca pudding with mango and fruits of the forest (680 Ft).
The granola is a healthy portion, sweet-acidic flavours in the right place, and the pudding would also make a decent dessert. You could also opt for a standard croissant, butter and jam, or go for an English favourite, the scone (820 HUF).
These are baked locally, as are daily pies (860 HUF) and quiches (890 HUF). Staying with the UK, English breakfast (2,560 HUF) is also on the menu, a genuine calorie bomb. MITZI uses spicier Cumberland sausage, bacon and black pudding, all direct from England.
On the lighter side, the tofu scrambled eggs (1,520 HUF) is real lazy brunch material, with Oriental flavours, served with a decent side of green salad.
The big hitter of the breakfast range is undoubtedly the Baron’s Favourite of caviar, champagne and salmon (5,990 HUF). The Norwegian wild salmon has been resting in a marinade of horseradish, dill and beetroot for 24 hours, though with a coffee cup of caviar, is a seriously decadent choice, though not one that will keep you replete until the evening. There are few better starts to the day, all the same.
And to bookend it, MITZI plans regular literary evenings, readings and unplugged sessions.
