Every year on 23 October, the nation commemorates the Hungarian Revolution of 1956, when the Magyars rose up against the Soviet forces occupying the country at the time. While peaceful protests were calling for free elections and a free press, this heroic insurrection became a bloody street battle, causing the deaths of thousands. Soon after the freedom fight was trounced by the Kremlin-backed authorities in early November, the Soviet-controlled government was reinstated, prompting over 200,000 Hungarians to flee their homeland – either by choice in the hope of finding a better future or to escape ferocious retribution by the oppressive power.
To observe this valiant day in Hungarian history, 23 October marks a public holiday in the country. Here in Budapest, several events take place citywide:
Memorial Torchlit Procession
On 22 October, following a memorial ceremony at the Budapest University of Technology and Economics – a significant site during the 1956 events – masses of people set off from outside the building at 4:30pm to march along the Danube riverfront, each carrying a torch flame. The procession follows Szent Gellért tér, Szent Gellért rakpart, Várkert rakpart, Ybl Miklós tér, Clark Ádám tér, Fő utca and Jégverem utca, before reaching Bem tér, where solemn speeches are delivered. The nearby Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade (Bem rakpart 47) will be bathed in colourful illumination with a light projection between 6pm and 11pm.
Flag-raising ceremony on Kossuth tér
On 23 October at 9am, crowds gather at Kossuth tér to observe the national flag being hoisted above this focal square. Military processions and music accompany the ceremony, towered above by the neo-Gothic Parliament building.
Guided tours of Parliament
On Tuesday between 10am and 5pm, Parliament provides free admission to those who join the queue for a guided walk (in Hungarian only) around the building. Among the impressive sights of this governmental palace are the Grand Stairway, the central Dome Hall and the Holy Crown of Hungary, the nation’s revered relic.
Museum of Military History
Featuring detailed displays of war-time campaigns and Hungarian army uniforms, the Museum of Military History awaits visitors with free entry on 23 October between 9am and 5pm. Inside this building’s marble hall, families are offered workshops such as tin-soldier painting, while the courtyard will host a weapon show.
Hungarian National Museum
On 23 October, the temporary and permanent exhibitions at the National Museum are free to view, except the World Press Photo guest show. From prehistoric stone-carved tools to the ornate coronation mantle worn by Hungarian kings, the collection is fascinatingly diverse. Also on show are Roman silver relics from around 400AD, the so-called Seuso treasure.
Hungarian National Gallery
For the public holiday, the Hungarian National Gallery offers complimentary admission to all of its exhibitions, currently featuring big-shot masters of art history. The C building of the museum contains the heart-wrenchingly evocative art of passionate Mexican painter Frida Kahlo. Within building A are figurative works by School of London representatives, including Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon. The gallery's permanent display shows Hungarian art in chronological order.
Ludwig Museum
On Tuesday between 10am and 8pm, art lovers can enjoy complimentary access to renowned contemporary exhibitions at the riverside Ludwig Museum, accessible via scenic tram 2 to Müpa. On display are dreamlike mini movies by award-winning Finnish film director Salla Tykkä and, on the next floor, visual installations examine the consonances between Baltic and Eastern-European history. Meanwhile, the permanent Westkunst-Ostkunst exhibition underlines the similarities and differences between Western and Eastern art.
Vintage vehicles on tram routes 4/6 and 47/49
Between 22 October and 4 November, antiquated streetcars will be serving these two main Budapest tram lines at certain intervals during the day. At designated stops, newsboys dressed in period costumes will distribute papers featuring historic editions. Ordinary tickets and passes are valid for the ride.
