Here in Budapest, little bistros of good quality are like hen’s teeth. Whether in the categories of street food or fine dining, or anything in between, homely but delicious cuisine is hard to find. Fortunately, in the depths of District VIII, this is a situation that is being addressed thanks to the opening of a friendly daytime spot in Práter utca: Dagoba. The brainchild of Lilla Meggyes and Pali Pajor is a rustic gem, with a daily menu chalked up on a board in true bistro style.
Práter utca is a somewhat strange thoroughfare, where old meets modern, and urban contemporary mingles with the tattily bucolic. Here, Lilla and Pali found an old, dilapidated wine cellar that they converted into a cozy interior of wooden furniture, plants and ceramics.
The focus of the business space is behind the counter, where Lilla and Pali present something new every day. The kitchen is geared towards breakfast and lunch – so much so that everything closes at 3pm in order for the pair to concentrate on the menu for the following day. Spontaneity is key, as well as seasonal ingredients and creativity.
You could say that Dagoba has two aims in mind: to make everyone feel comfortable and to prepare delicious meals. In terms of atmosphere, soups and main courses, they most certainly succeed.
To categorize their kitchen would be difficult but two words spring to mind: healthy and homemade. They try to do the raw materials justice – much comes from small-batch farm near Lajosmizse. Special salads, extremely tasty vegetables, these are the kinds of products that allow you to taste the sunshine that helped make them grow. Spices and aromas fill the small venue.
The daily menu at Dagoba is always chalked up on a small board for you to choose from. You can also ask staff to recommend. On this particular visit, you could treat yourself to cream of leek soup with cheese, or a cream of chicken soup embellished with herbs and chicken strips. These smooth, fresh-flavored soups come in smaller (390 HUF) and larger (490 HUF) helpings.
One particular favorite is the vegetarian curry (980 HUF), which works well with coconut milk. The penne Bolognese (1,290 HUF) and quiche are solid. As for the fig-and-custard cake (390 HUF), you could probably eat that until the cows come home.
Dagoba has become popular with nearby workers, whose half-hour lunch is spent in convivial consumption. But as a healthy, affordable, light option, it should appeal to anyone looking for a quality daytime fill-up.
Dagoba
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Budapest 1083, Práter utca 59 Mon-Fri 8am-3pm
