Élesztőház near the Trafó arts centre was one of Budapest’s first ruin bars to offer craft beer. Over the years, the entire building has grown into a large gastronomic complex, where not only a beer hall but a restaurant, café and wine bar await, as well as a farmer’s market. Now the Ferencváros location has moved into Buda. Élesztő Terasz, younger sibling of Élesztőház, occupies the roof of the Mammut 2 mall.
Élesztőház is a kind of ruin bar-cum-beer hall with bare brick walls, benches and stout tables, bearing all the traces of the glass-blowing workshop that once stood there. Industrial is the word you’re looking for. Now Élesztőház has a smarter sibling, atop Mammut 2 – and Budapest has another panoramic drinking option.
Élesztő Terasz is distinguished from its parental institution by the fact that ruin bar elements are only visible here and there. The longer, communal benches remind you of the place in Ferencváros, as does the ancient, worn, used tank in the middle of the bar counter.
The terrace is defined by the pleasant, ambient music in the background, the specialist beers and the gastronomic offerings soon to be in place. And, of course, the view.
It's moderate in price, neither expensive nor cheap, pretty much the same as its parent institution. There are half as many beers on tap here, 15, as there, but the repertoire is similarly diverse, from a simple pils to IPA, alcohol- and gluten-free beer. Natural wines, lemonades and cocktails also feature.
Although not integral to gentrifying Margit körút, it fits into the trend that has characterised the area in recent months. There’s more to Buda these days than mere greenery and birdsong.