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Transformer station transformed into top eatery and cocktail spot Marischka

Writers

  • Péter Blazsovszky

12/10/2021 3.04pm

A former transformer station has undergone a miraculous transformation into Marischka, a smart restaurant whose soft opening runs until this Thursday, 14 October. The building on Buda’s Attila út was designed in 1938 by Dénes Györgyi, master of Modernism and Art Deco between the wars. Later converted into apartments, its street-level space now contains bar/restaurant, Marischka, run by Jancsi Bokor and his team.

Thanks to its architectural legacy, the house at Attila út 99 features high ceilings and a slightly industrial feel, now mixed with a youthful modernity and plenty of greenery. The result is both monumental and homely at the same time, as if nature had replaced metal.

Photo: Szabó Gábor - We Love Budapest

Luxury location

Our concept was to create a place that, with a kind of extravagance which still welcomes everyone warmly,” says Jancsi Bokor. “Thanks to its location under Buda Castle, it also meets the highest demands. Although this is a luxury apartment house, Marischka adds to the colour. This is a place that isn’t afraid to be laid-back, but is absolutely committed to quality and wants to provide the best experience, both in terms of food and the selection of drinks.”

Jancsi Bokor

Photo: Szabó Gábor - We Love Budapest

In the kitchen, Attila Purger oversees a rich Hungarian bistro cuisine, a rarity in this town. Simple dishes are not reinvented, but made from top ingredients, perfectly prepared. The oft-overlooked hagymás rostélyos, sirloin steak (HUF 4,300), comprised a triumvirate of crispy onions, flawless new potatoes with parsley and delicious Argentine rib-eye.

Hagymás rostélyos

Photo: Szabó Gábor - We Love Budapest

The paraszttál (HUF 1,900), a platter of cold cuts and cheeses, was mainly sourced from around Pécs, while the házi szilvás gombóc, homemade plum dumplings (HUF 1,800), is already shaping up to be a signature dish, with just the right proportions, texture and flavour.


In addition, there’s bean soup with pork knuckle, sheeps’ cheese noodles, cabbage in tomato sauce, lamb shank, Hortobágy pancakes and game stew with dumplings, among several other classics.

Original cocktails are another speciality.

Photo: Szabó Gábor - We Love Budapest

Signature and seasonal

We entrusted Balázs Molnár with the task of writing a cocktail list according to the names on each apartment door, so the tenants in the house each have this delicate reference. This is how our eight signature cocktails were devised, from the names on the apartments, as well as eight of the seasonal autumn-winter selection now available. Our Negroni, for example, was inspired by Caesar, who began his political career by undertaking finance and administrative duties in the province of present-day Portugal and southern Spain. That’s why we chose red powder to give it a little sweetness and dryness. The other flavour is the bay leaf, which Caesar used as a crown in later years.”

Jeanne d’Arc is a fiery national hero whose femininity is emphasised with a soft gin-and-basil smash cocktail base, her French elegance expressed with the added champagne. The Leonidas reflects the toughest of Spartan warriors, hence this manly Manhattan. The rye whiskey is softened by the spicy sweet Vermouth and Amaro, slightly smoky from the cold press. We embellish it with fresh orange peel because of the essential oils in the peel,” says Jancsi.

Photo: Szabó Gábor - We Love Budapest

In addition to cocktails, Marischka is characterised by a wide selection of traditional and natural wines, small-batch beers, ciders, specialty coffee and a solid range of international spirits.

Venue information

Marischka
1012 Budapest, Attila út 99
Instagram 
Soft opening until 14 October

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