A former transformer station has undergone a miraculous transformation into Marischka, a smart restaurant whose soft opening runs until this Thursday, 14 October. The building on Buda’s Attila út was designed in 1938 by Dénes Györgyi, master of Modernism and Art Deco between the wars. Later converted into apartments, its street-level space now contains bar/restaurant, Marischka, run by Jancsi Bokor and his team.
Thanks to its architectural legacy, the house at Attila út 99 features high ceilings and a slightly industrial feel, now mixed with a youthful modernity and plenty of greenery. The result is both monumental and homely at the same time, as if nature had replaced metal.
concept was to create a place that, with a kind of extravagance which still welcomes
everyone warmly,” says Jancsi Bokor. “Thanks to its location under Buda Castle, it also
meets the highest demands. Although this is a luxury apartment house, Marischka
adds to the colour. This is a place that isn’t afraid to be laid-back, but is
absolutely committed to quality and wants to provide the best experience, both in
terms of food and the selection of drinks.”
In the kitchen, Attila Purger oversees a rich Hungarian bistro cuisine, a rarity in this town. Simple dishes are not reinvented, but made from top ingredients, perfectly prepared. The oft-overlooked hagymás rostélyos, sirloin steak (HUF 4,300), comprised a triumvirate of crispy onions, flawless new potatoes with parsley and delicious Argentine rib-eye.
The paraszttál (HUF
1,900), a platter of cold cuts and cheeses, was mainly sourced from around Pécs,
while the házi szilvás
gombóc, homemade plum dumplings (HUF 1,800), is already
shaping up to be a signature dish, with just the right proportions, texture and
In addition, there’s bean soup with pork knuckle, sheeps’ cheese noodles, cabbage in tomato sauce, lamb shank, Hortobágy pancakes and game stew with dumplings, among several other classics.
Original cocktails are another speciality.
Signature and seasonal
“We entrusted Balázs Molnár with the task of writing a cocktail list according
to the names on each apartment door, so the tenants in the house each have this
delicate reference. This is how our eight signature cocktails were devised,
from the names on the apartments, as well as eight of the seasonal autumn-winter
selection now available. Our Negroni, for example, was inspired by Caesar, who began
his political career by undertaking finance and administrative duties in the
province of present-day Portugal and southern Spain. That’s why we chose red
powder to give it a little sweetness and dryness. The other flavour is the bay leaf,
which Caesar used as a crown in later years.”
“Jeanne d’Arc is a fiery national hero whose femininity is emphasised with a soft gin-and-basil smash cocktail base, her French elegance expressed with the added champagne. The Leonidas reflects the toughest of Spartan warriors, hence this manly Manhattan. The rye whiskey is softened by the spicy sweet Vermouth and Amaro, slightly smoky from the cold press. We embellish it with fresh orange peel because of the essential oils in the peel,” says Jancsi.
In addition to cocktails, Marischka is characterised by a wide selection of traditional and natural wines, small-batch beers, ciders, specialty coffee and a solid range of international spirits.