In the shadow of the monolithic Puskás Aréna, a lush, nurturing artists' community has been thriving for generations. Tucked away on Százados út, huge, deciduous trees separate its lived-in studios from urban bustle. Walking past the fence, you can peek through the gaps and wonder what the large windows and amber-coloured walls are hiding. If you could peek into the past as well, you might see a statue of Stalin in the making, post-war Greek dissident Memos Makris sculpting another piece or Hungarian filmmaker Géza Bereményi at work. Today, there is just as much life and creativity as ever before.

Europe’s oldest standing artists’ colony was only ever meant to be temporary, located in the then-suburban area of Százados út in the early 1900s. But time and history have seen the residential buildings, built in Hungarian Art-Nouveau style, stand unopposed for 110 years.

The colony was created predominantly for the sculptors living at the time, but over the years, painters, graphic artists, interior designers and writers have all lived in these studio apartments, created in 1911 by city engineer Sándor Wossala.

Lack of housing in Budapest at the turn of the century made it difficult for artists to find viable studio space. The great masters could build studio villas for themselves and colleges provided facilities for teachers.


Fortunate ones could snag a place in time, while the Várkert Bazár had spaces in a row of arcades transformed for artists. However, those just beginning their career, or without the right connections, often found themselves without an apartment, much less a studio.

The change began in the early 1900s: more and more fine arts groups were formed, more and more exhibition spaces opened around the city, and finally the authorities began to realise that young talent was worth encouraging.


The idea was formed to establish a colony for Hungarian artists, the first being a studio house on Kelenhegyi út. While it was a good start, it was not nearly big enough, so larger colonies arose. Upstairs studios were increasingly being given to painters, and the sculptors with their multi-ton weights and tools were often being forced into musty, dark cellars.

Finally, in 1909, at the request of two sculptors, Ede Kallós and Géza Horváth, the colony as we know it began to take shape. There was a huge demand for studio apartments from the beginning, and the conversation turned to suitable places to house this expanding project. The Városliget ice rink was one possibility, as well as the Stefánia út water tower and verdant Pasarét were both tossed out as options.


In the end, however, the lower rent of the suburbs was the deal-breaker, and a former cabbage field was selected for development. In total, 28 studios and 15 houses were erected.

Walking through the colony is a real delight, with hidden sculptures popping out of the bushes or peeking through the curtains, and the lush foliage is complemented with roses, lime trees, strawberry plants and climbing vines.

Best of all, you can just imagine all the renowned Hungarian artists who have left their mark here, from painters Móric Gábor and Bertalan Pór to sculptors Ferenc Medgyessy and Zsigmond Kisfaludi Strobl, creator of Lady Liberty above Citadella. Móric Gábor’s grandfather, Gábor Szabó, was one of the founders of the colony.

This meditative environment is no coincidence. In fact, it was deliberately included in the plans, as they wanted to create a pleasant, soothing ambiance which not only encourages artists to create, but also serves as a real home. Once there was even a luxuriant fountain pool and tennis court, and strutting, live peacocks. These are not here any longer but you can imagine the possibility without much difficulty.

The little community changed during World War II, as many artists fled to the countryside. Many did not return, and were replaced with a younger generation of artists. During the bombing of Budapest, severe damage was caused to the houses, which were largely restored by the artists on their own.

There is a well-known Hungarian work called Tavaszi tárlat, or Spring Exhibition, by György Spiró which makes reference to the studios of Memos Makris and Sándor Mikus in the colony, where they organised the 1957 Spring Exhibition.

In fact, almost every serious sculptor from the 20th century worked here at some point, and it was also here that an eight-metre statue of Stalin was created, its plaster model resting somewhere under the rose bushes.


Ferenc Medgyessy also made four allegorical gold medals in 1937 for the Paris World’s Fair, which today stands in front of the Déri Museum in Debrecen. The residential community around the colony has also attracted creative minds over the years, ensuring that the colony spirit spills out into the surrounding areas.

Tags