Instigated in Monte Carlo, the Beefbar franchise has spread fine dining all over the world. Its Budapest outlet was opened last year inside the Hotel Clark – and now it has introduced a new series of dishes called Budapest Exclusive, offering classic Hungarian favourites created from traditional recipes. We sampled the revered Magyar fare.
Riccardo Giraudi opened his first Beefbar in 2005. Since then, he has launched restaurants all around the world, gaining Michelin stars in Hong Kong. Whether it is a restaurant by the Med or a downtown eatery, consistency is key – guests need to be able to enjoy the exact same high quality on a January afternoon as on a late August evening. Despite high expectations, a restaurant should not lose its mojo, underscored by solid professionalism.
Wherever in the world a Beefbar may be, it needs to reflect the characteristics of the given city. As the name suggests, each restaurant is focused on meat, but only premium: Argentine, American or Australian Angus, wagyu and Japanese Kobe. But the selection doesn’t just end here; brunches, lunch specials and now, a new Budapest Exclusive offer make the menu complete. Reflecting the philosophy of the franchise, the Budapest Exclusive assortment presents diners with classic Hungarian dishes created in traditional fashion, without a modern twist.
Budapest Exclusive dishes can be ordered at lunchtime or for dinner, and are featured in a separate section on the menu. There are two soups: black Angus goulash (2,950 HUF) and beef (1,950 HUF). Upon our visit we tried the former: no twists or surprises, this is a decent, trustworthy broth with outstandingly tasty meat.
No wonder lángos (3,950 HUF) features on the menu, it is revered in Hungary. But instead of the regular huge and oily disc-shaped offering, here you should expect a little teaser that fits in your palm. This is the only reinvented recipe, as the lángos here is topped with Kobe beef strips, Japanese mayo and flying-fish roe. It is tasty and a bit provocative, illustrating the need to bring a little invention into at least one of the traditional recipes.
Classic goose liver terrine is served with brioche (3,950 HUF). It’s a decent starter, but when our beef-cheek stew came with Hungarian dumplings and cucumber salad (3,950 HUF), we couldn’t take our eyes – or our hands – off it. Homely flavours come through, the meat melts in the mouth and it is a generous serving. The pörkölt here is outstanding, and a great introduction to classic Hungarian cuisine.
