The name of Dear Budapest, a new gastro bar near Ferenciek Square, sounds like the beginning of a kind letter to Hungary’s capital. However, this sandwich place does not specialize in Hungarian specialties, but instead features Denmark’s unique, open-faced sandwiches called smørrebrød. The opening selection of the eatery was created by Michelin-starred Hungarian chef Heiszler Olivér.
The owners of the newly opened gastro bar Dear Budapest, Bianca Juhász and her sister, came a long way before opening their own business. Originally, they worked in the fashion and make-up industry – and accordingly, the beautifully composed sandwiches reflect their passion for shapes and colors, and the need to create meticulous details perfectly. Even though we arrived with empty stomachs, before dining we spent a considerable amount of time at the glass counter, completely captivated by the selection’s visual appeal. The eatery provides a rather pleasant environment with its clean shapes and harmonious colors, greenish wooden surfaces, and pale powder-pink chairs.
The current culinary revolution didn’t leave our classic favorites, like hamburgers, wiener schnitzel, or ice cream untouched – so why would sandwiches be an exception? The Juhász sisters wanted to bring something new to Budapest, and decided to introduce the rich, colorful smørrebrød sandwiches of Denmark to the locals by working together with the most popular Hungarian chefs. They were already acquaintances with Olivér Heiszler, so it was obvious that he would put together the bar’s opening selection.
We can choose from a total of eight different sandwiches, including vegetarian, meaty, and fishy versions, as well. Olivér not only compiled the menu, but also helped the girls learn how to prepare everything, from the pickling of ingredients to the seasoning of the spreads. He was given a free hand when putting together the menu; Bianca only requested that, since their sandwiches follow Scandinavian traditions, there should be several kinds of sandwiches made with fish. This is how Dear Budapest ended up with variations such as the classic smoked salmon/dill/mascarponesandwich, or the slightly odd smoked sturgeon/mango/peanut butter sandwich.
They get all of the ingredients fresh and raw, and make all toppings, spreads, and decorations in the kitchen. Their most difficult task proved to be finding the perfect bread: some slices became stale when chilled, while others were too porous and let the spreads trickle through their holes. In the end, they found the perfect rye bread at Marmorstein Bakery.
Three main ingredients are described for each sandwich, although some have five or six different toppings. All sandwiches cost 890 forints, from which we tasted the aforementioned smoked sturgeon/mango/peanut butter variety and the duck-liver mousse/grape/mango mustard versions. In addition to food, the menu also features suki tea (4 dl for 650 HUF), as well as coffee, tea, and soda syrups from Keszthely, available in eight unique flavors such as lavender, cucumber, or dandelion (500 HUF).
Dear Budapest’s plans for the future include making sandwiches to order; presumably, they’ll be able to make 100-150 pieces for exhibition openings, smaller conferences, or receptions. The menu is set to change every three to six months or seasonally, as well, as a succession of talented chefs will combine their own unique style with the gastronomy of various cultures. In addition to variety and high quality, the bar’s philosophy is that every meal, however small it might be, should be a celebration. The owners find it important to keep their sandwiches exciting and characteristic, so that people will return for their favorite flavors – and naturally, the good atmosphere.
