Since becoming Budapest’s most elegantly extravagant party hub, Tütü recently converted its cozy “lobby” into a chic restaurant with graceful style to match the nightclub’s ballet-themed atmosphere. After opening in September, Susu immediately became a city-center gastro hotspot led by chef András Sipos, the former star foodsmith of Olimpia, Spazio, and nU Bistro, who sophisticatedly fuses Hungarian, French, and Asian tastes.
At first glance, we thought that Susu’s new address – Hercegprímás Street 18 – must have been a typo, as that address is already occupied by the beloved Tütü club of Budapest’s District V, but it turns out that these two both belong to a joint concept. Tütü’s bar used to be a passage between the cloakroom and the club, where partygoers waited for their friends who got lost in the hustle and bustle of the night. The management realized that this less-exploited unit was a luxury, and that the club was missing a kitchen, so after the summer break Tütü returned with a new restaurant: Susu. The new eatery’s gastronomic concept is somewhat groundbreaking.
Susu didn’t intend to join Budapest's fine-dining scenery, so its character is not entirely elegant and luxurious, but rather laid-back and cool. Chef András Sipos previously worked at Olimpia, Spazio, and nU Bistro; drawing on his experience at these creative eateries, the short menu he created features truly exciting pairings. Susu’s founders positioned this restaurant in a way that would please those who like quality ingredients, extra flavors, and a special serving style, but who are not necessarily keen on fine-dining restaurants, as they prefer something more laid-back and not too expensive. After tasting the courses, we can reveal that the meals have a Hungarian, French, and Asian touch, and the cocktail and wine selection is highly emphasized. They put together eight creative cocktail creations that are named after such stars as Alain Delon, Zsazsa Gábor, Yoko Ono, and Sophia Loren.
We had the chance to try a few courses at Susu, such as the roasted duck liver with yurzus ponzu sauce, green apple and Japanese parsley (1,490 HUF). This characteristic dish, building on the contrast of softness and crispiness, immediately became one of our favorites. We also tried a very silky corn cream soup (890 HUF). From the main dish selection we had poached salmon salad with lychee foam, avocado cream, and vegetables (2,490 HUF). It is a light course, definitely recommended for those who like salmon. The grilled squid is served with quinoa and pumpkin velouté (2,490 HUF), which is an unusual but unique pairing. A big favorite nowadays is baby chicken leg (1,990 HUF), persuading even less-keen fans of chicken with its melt-in-the-mouth meat. At Susu, it comes served with ratatouille cream, bell pepper, onion, and mashed potatoes. A must-try is the place’s special madártej (a dessert similar to a floating island, 990 HUF) with egg whites flavored with passion fruit, banana foam, lime, and coconut. We would have loved to take a whole jar of it with us.
Beyond the young and brave gastronomical selection, Susu is also the accessibly exclusive “VIP lobby” of Tütü, because after having dinner here, the restaurant’s customers can skip the line and enter the club for free through the back entrance. It is worthwhile to try this place at such an early stage, and let the management know about any suggestions, critiques, and compliments you may have.
Tütü (closed)
Address: 1051 Budapest,18 Hercegprímás Street
