Sometimes it seems like downtown Pest is something of a Bermuda Triangle for new restaurants – almost all of the city’s interesting eateries seem to debut (and often disappear) within the same few blocks surrounding central Deák Square. However, more and more restaurateurs are now opening intriguing dining destinations with distinct personality in Budapest’s outer areas, well worth a short excursion to discover them – and this definitely includes the new grill bar Céltorony by a District XIII harbor, reflecting Budapest’s deep relationship with the river that runs through it.
Providing a charming setting for a culinary voyage at the end of Meder Street near Pest’s Marina Coast, the new grill bar named Céltorony opened in one of the unused buildings of the city’s Rowing Association. The location is only seemingly remote – sited at the tip of Népsziget just a short stroll away from the M3 Gyöngyösi utca metro stop, we can get there from Nyugati Railway Station in a matter of minutes, and the venue is also easily accessible by bicycle.
The place is the work of Márton Stoller, who also created the Blup Grill’n’Chill project, and who has long been seeking a nook where he could permanently place his Big Green Egg grill set to make something for guests every day.
The theme of Céltorony is all about rowing – apparent with the life preservers and paddles that playfully decorate the interior – while the menu includes sandwiches, grilled meats, pastries, and craft beers.
Daily specials are also available depending on seasonal ingredients and the kitchen staff’s current mood; in addition, we also have the opportunity to submit culinary requests when reserving a table. For example, if we do not want to eat meat, we can request grilled vegetables, grilled tofu, or basically anything we can think of – we just need to indicate our preferences with enough advance notice for the crew to pick up the requested foodstuffs.
Naturally there is also a fixed selection, including things like the shredded barbecued-meat sandwich (1,400 HUF), the homemade duck-liver paté sandwich (900 HUF), the smoked-eggplant cream sandwich (900 HUF), or the burrito with cheese or beef (1,600 HUF). There is a nice selection of craft beers to accompany our meals – currently, four types are available on tap: Propaganda Pils, Eggenberg unfiltered light and unfiltered smoky-brown, Stari cherry beer, and First Act American Pale Ale.
The interior design is impressive, as well: everything has to do something with rowing. For example, the cabinet and one of the tables were made from a boat, and the footstool at the bar, the shelves, and the lamps have nautical touches, as well. Graphic designer Miklós Kiss also took part in the development of the brand design, which the various inscriptions clearly show – these tell the guests about the importance of washing their hands after using the toilet, about reserved tables, and about drinking enough water in the heat.
We also asked about the name, and were told that Céltorony is actually a fusion of a sport bistro and a grill bar, where everyone is welcome. In this spirit, the place is also pet friendly – four-legged guests are greeted by the bistro’s resident host, Hobo the dog. We look forward to cruising over there again before long!
