Baraka is Back: artful fine dining on downtown Dorottya Street

Leora and David Seboek have been living in Hungary for 16 years. They arrived separately, but after being brought together by an amazingly delicious cake that David made for a party, their fate was sealed: they fell in love and have become inseparable – not only in their private life, but in their work, as well. David is a baker and confectioner, which is how he charmed Leora, who is especially enthusiastic about gastronomy. They had a go at opening the first Baraka restaurant on Magyar Street, and since then they also operated a large location on Andrássy Avenue, but they felt the need for a downtown location with wide spaces and a modern kitchen, with a stylish interior where their professional staff could flourish. They found the parlor for rent on the street level of Palazzo Dorottya three years ago, and have been preparing for this re-opening ever since, as they did not want to return hastily. Therefore, even though we arrived three days after the opening and found everything perfect, David thinks that they are still in a “soft opening” phase.

The storefront will be more extravagant, because it fits the street’s image too discreetly. As we step in, we are greeted by the bar and a few tables in the bright and airy space, which continues into a lounge section with stylish and comfortable armchairs and small tables. The owners asked Zoltán Nagy, well known from Boutiq’ Bar, to help them put together the bar’s selection. They are rather proud of their selection of exceptional Japanese whiskeys and cognacs, and even their cocktails, which is good news, as the city’s cocktail lineup gets better and better. So this is what Baraka starts the night with – followed by some top-quality bar food.

The bites are strongly Asian-influenced, yet the spicy does not overpower the sour or the salty-sweet flavors; all of the tastes stimulate our taste buds at the same time. The Asian delicacies arrived with a “tapas” system, on appetizing wooden trays, which were specifically designed for Baraka. We ordered crispy crab, Wellington beef spring rolls, cured salmon, Peking duck, and bacon-filled steamed buns. We also received various sauces in small bowls, all of which were very exciting, and in additional bowls, some green salads arrived, with very well done “barely-dressings”. Two people can eat their fill by ordering 3-4 kinds of bar food, and tasting is a wonderful experience anyway, especially when accompanied by a cocktail (2,500-4,500 HUF). We can safely say that it has been awhile since we ate such crisp, light, and fresh spring rolls.

Leaving the bar and the lounge behind, we were faced with the main attraction, the elegantly high-profile restaurant itself, with imposing headroom, a huge wine cooler, and half-open kitchen, where a small team works simultaneously under the leadership of chef Norbert Bíró. The dishes are primarily influenced by French cuisine, sprinkled with some Asian and Hungarian elements. They use a lot of seafood ingredients, since the owners adore fish and other fruits of the sea, and these are very rewarding materials – if prepared properly, they can easily be made into great dishes. In addition, we can find foie gras, Mangalica, and duck on the menu, as well. The degustation menu includes seven dishes and costs 19,500 forints, while a tasting dinner with wine costs 29,000 forints.

Naturally, the dishes are artfully prepared to be visually striking and astounding, but the flavors are also as impressive as with the bar’s delicacies. The is nothing ostentatious on the menu – for example, the crab carpaccio with cilantro-spinach pesto and doused with coconut crab soup (2,500 HUF) is pretty cool; the ginger Mangalica with black roots, pear, and cocoa ravioli (5,900 HUF) really hit the spot; and the white shrimp garnished with cabbage leaves, ginger, chili, carrots and pineapple coulis (6,500 HUF) also proved to be a great choice. We were given some of David’s homemade buns with butter as well, and for that matter, we should not forget about his pastries, either. We fell head over heels for the passion fruit mousse, served with white chocolate, banana, and peanuts (2,500 HUF).

Quite obviously, Baraka’s prices are in a different category than what you'll find at Király Street’s pizza stands, but do not forget that we are talking about a fine-dining restaurant. (Nonetheless, the value of these world-class dishes are a bargain here in comparison to any equally magnificent meals served in countries just a short journey west.) If you can afford this luxury, definitely visit Baraka for a nice dinner, and the bar offers a nice alternative for those who would rather just have some snacks along with an amazing drink.