When we visited this “little Italia” we were lucky to get to chat with chef Graziano Cattaneo about his newest restaurant. Oggi Sfizieria had opened literally just a few hours before, but we were already drinking Prosecco and tasting the delicious, homemade pasta. This authentic Italian restaurant cements the Gozsdu Udvar courtyard as a prime gastro passageway in Budapest, and we can say without any exaggeration that we were there when Oggi was born.
In addition to its trendy bars, Gozsdu Udvar is famous for its international gastro scene. There are burgers, Asian noodles served in paper boxes, and even shakshouka available in the popular restaurants of the District VII passage. Until now, the Italian contingent had consisted of 2Spaghi where we could get take away fresh pasta and creamy tiramisu. You could even say Yiddishe Mamma Mia represented the Italian line since they serve Italian-Jewish cuisine. But there wasn't a place with a real Italian tempo and vibe; a restaurant where it's not frowned upon to take your time eating or to talk loudly, and where we can finish our meal with a nice, relaxed coffee.
In Italy, the terms sfizieria, stuzzicheria and spezieria are used for more casual eateries that we can visit for a spontaneous cheese tasting, or a quick pasta or pizza. In Italy everything related to eating counts as an “event”: Italians feel delighted while tasting just a simple grissini or bruschetta, since a love of food and good flavours is part of their culture. Therefore, dropping by an authentic Italian place like this can be a great experience. And so we begin with olive oil, green herbs, fresh pasta and Italian drinks.
Enthusiasts of Italian restaurants might already know chef Graziano Cattaneo from Krizia. The owner/chef of the family ristorante in Mozsár Street decided that, in addition to his elegant Italian diner, he would like to open a more casual place in Budapest. So now we can place Oggi with Graziano’s name as well and this is truly meaningful to those who've had the pleasure of tasting his dishes.
We arrived within the first few hours of the restaurant opening hoping to explore the pasta selection. After a pizza for appetizer, we ordered pumpkin tortellini with sage butter (1390 forints), fettuccine with prawns and zucchini (890 forints), and gnocchi with pesto and sheep’s cheese (1690 forints). Our favourite was the pasta filled with pumpkin chutney as combined with the sage butter we found a very characteristic taste. We liked the wide pasta with shrimp as well, since even the pasta took on the flavours of the seafood. The gnocchi was soft – maybe a little to soft – but naturally, this is a matter of personal preference. We concluded our meal with the house panna cotta (890 forints), which was unconventionally made with rum.
After the pizza-focaccia appetizer, pasta main and dessert, we were absolutely full. An important characteristic of the sfizieria is that the menu doesn't include more serious meaty dishes, but Graziano would like to add these in time. Moreover, he plans to bring his polenta - from Bergamo - to Oggi.
There will definitely be changes to the design, as well as the staff - after all, we did arrive in the restaurant's very first few hours. Because this place is still so new small mistakes may take place with regard to service and the atmosphere of the interior, but the flavours - which are divine - most certainly make up for any deficiency.
Trattoria Gozsdu
1075 Budapest, Király Street 13. (Gozsdu Udvar)
Opening hours: Monday - Sunday: 12pm - 12am
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