As a general rule, the atmosphere of bus stations is anything but attractive – however, the motor-coach depot in central Pest’s Erzsébet Square has always been a shining exception. Built in 1949 with sleek Bauhaus style, this glass-and-stone hub proved to be a fondly remembered location for countless farewells and reunions during Hungary’s communist era.
After being decommissioned when intercity bus centers were established away from downtown, this low-slung station was left to crumble in recent years, only beginning its new life as Design Terminál in 2010 with a total renovation and a fresh purpose of showcasing Hungary’s most avant-garde applied arts and fashions. Now the new Terminal restaurant and bar welcomes the public within what once was the main waiting room here, and while elements of the original depot must be conserved for historical preservation, the appealing interior cleverly melds its transportation relics with 21st-century style.The original rows of picture windows continue to let sunlight stream into the spacious ambience while providing visitors with sweeping views over the bustling square. Guests can sit on refurbished wooden benches from decades ago and check the time on the collection of clocks that once alerted passengers when their bus would be arriving. Meanwhile, the signboard that formerly informed ticketholders about imminent departures now offers diners an overview of seasonal weekly specials to peruse at their leisure.
With a simple menu focusing on modern European-fusion cooking along with some Magyar staples, guests here enjoy a creative variety of flavorful lunches and dinners, although patrons are welcome to stop in just for drinks or snacks as well. Appetizers are perfect for sharing on the sprawling terrace (a favorite site for young regulars), such as the duck rillettes with apple and radish salad served with fresh-baked bread, or the spicy chicken wings. Light eaters can choose from inventive treats like the green asparagus potato salad with smoked trout and boiled egg, or the hearty duck consommé with liver and thin strips of savory crepes – substantial enough to be a meal in itself.
However, the main dishes are not to be missed, as each is created with care in the brand-new show kitchen and offered with artistic presentation. The succulent meat of the beef short ribs falls off the bone, creating a tender accompaniment to crisp classic coleslaw; the veal in rich paprika sauce comes with cottage-cheese pasta to combine impressively lightly in what is ordinarily a heavy dish; and the ample plateful of mouthwatering mascarpone pasta is served with three types of peas and delicious slices of prosciutto imported from Italy.
Even the desserts offer pleasantly filling satisfaction, such as the floating island made zesty with the addition of candied orange, the creamy raspberry-chocolate cake, or the almost-piquant lemon pie. All of these unpredictably extraordinary culinary experiences ensure that Terminal guests never feel the boredom prevalent in bus-station waiting rooms – and there’s never any rush to leave, either.
