The new nature trail up Kis-Strázsa Hill in Esztergom-Kertváros is already extremely popular with locals, running for just over a kilometre to and from Kökörcsin House. On the northern slope, you can take in the splendid views over the Tatra Hills to Slovakia.
As this Hungarian-language video explains, for most of the 20th century, Kis-Strázsa Hill had a military function and was closed off to the general public. Hungarian troops were trained there before going off fight in World War I, and scores of Russian, Italian and Romanian were kept here as POWs.
With Esztergom forming the Hungarian border in 1920 following the creation of Czechoslovakia, this became a vital observation point.
In World War II, it served as an air base for reconnaissance and bombing raids, before the Soviets moved in after 1945. Private tours are given of bunkers still covered in Cyrillic graffiti.
Finally, Kis-Strázsa Hill became part of the all-encompassing Danube-Ipoly National Park that stretches from Budapest for vast swathes across this region. An extensive clean-up operation, ridding the landscape of discarded weaponry and the waters of poisons, has allowed the authorities to install a unique nature trail, allowing the public to stroll where soldiers may have had their last glimpse of Hungary before being sent to the front.
