As urban Budapest is taken over by the summer heat, it’s great to explore relaxing spots amid nature and shade. Apart from popular destinations like Normafa and the Danube Bend, there are places with plentiful greenery and welcome tranquillity on and off the beaten track in Budapest. One such is a swampy nature trail in Aquincum, forming a special enclosed area: Mocsárosdűlő. This peaceful nature reserve offers sights of grazing cows, freely roaming chickens and even flocks of sheep.

Mocsárosdűlő lies west of Aquincum, on the HÉV train to Szentendre. Essentially, this reserve is a huge, bowl-shaped hollow in the ground, which was often flooded by the Danube in the past. Rainfall from the surrounding mountains also kept flowing into this area, creating a wet, swampy field. To make this space more habitable, ditches were set up to drain the water. The greenery found between Aranyhegyi út, Határ út, Rozália utca and Nádszál utca is officially regarded as the nature reserve, but the area around it can make for a nice stroll, too.

This is the only wetland on the Buda side that remains natural and largely untouched. The area comprises mowed and grazed grassland, sedges, reeds and spots of woodlands, but for the most part, it’s mainly marsh. During wintertime, or when there’s a lot of rainfall, small lakes also form on the fields.

The wetlands were saved in the very last moment in 2002, when plans were afoot to use the site for other purposes – leisure parks, housing complexes and industrial installations were being talked about. The area was then cleaned of rubble and waste, and a nature trail of around four kilometres was set up by the local Aquincum-Mocsáros Association, in 2012. They try to protect and maintain as best they can, sometimes by holding rubbish-collection events. Although there are still residues of litter scattered around, it’s great to enjoy some level of untouched nature, and take a relaxing walk outside.

The best way of getting to the reserve is to take the HÉV train to Rómaifürdő, then walk along Prés utca to the playground on Gladiátor utca, where parking is available, too. This is where the seven-stop nature trail begins, first with a recreational area followed by a section of woodland that leads to the marsh.

There are multiple intersecting trails lining the area, and it’s easy to veer off the main trail marked with a red T sign. You don’t mind getting lost here, though, as there are amazing rustic sights to encounter all over the reserve. You’re likely to see horses, cows and goats, but there’s often a whole flock of sheep grazing as well, guided by a shepherd and sheepdogs. It’s quite surreal to ask directions from an old lady, wearing a headscarf with chickens running around her, this close to built-up Budapest. The grazing animals are not only nice to watch in their natural statue, but they also help to maintain the area.

Depending on the season, there are various protected plant and animal species to be found, such as Danube Valley squills, moor grass, lax-flowered orchids, rare and protected eared willows, smooth newts and Danube crested newts, European tree frogs, European pond turtles (the only indigenous turtle variety in Hungary), sand lizards and common toads. There are also plenty of reed songbirds, and you may even spot a common buzzard or common kestrel.

The nature trail leads wanderers through areas covered with sedges and reeds up to the foothills of Péter Hill, and you can walk across paths lined with young aspens and the Schäffer trench on the way back. The last stop takes you straight to the ancient Roman ruins at Aquincum HÉV station.

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