First things first. The special discounted prices offered at Budapest’s ornate Széchenyi Baths are for all visitors, even non-Hungarians, so during the week, you’ll be paying 3,500 forints instead of nearly twice that as was the norm before the shutdown came into force.
Secondly, the Széchenyi opens at 9am, not 6am as was the case pre-shutdown. This means that modest queues line the four ticket windows, customers standing slightly apart from one another and served quickly. Compared to, say, Sziget week when gaggles of bathers snake out the door halfway to Budapest Capital Circus, it’s child’s play.
Thirdly, stick to the rules. Wear flip-flops as they ask you to and be sensible when you’re queuing for a beer or food. Bring a swimming cap if you’re going to use the lane pool. Friendly staff patrol the complex inside and out, and are quick to point out any discrepancies.
So, what’s it like?
In a word, lovely.
Few may remember the Széchenyi Baths without the crowds, but it's a very pleasant experience, indeed. The Hungarian-to-foreigner ratio is about 80-20, Poles being the most numerous according to a couple of random wades through the large outdoor thermal pool.
Staff come round to give railings a wipe down with sanitiser. As for the chess players, the dais is loaded and awaiting action but on this day, there were few takers.
Free sun-loungers line the whole area outside, and the main terrace bar/restaurant overlooking the lane pool is open for business, as is the little bar by the thermal pool. Payments are card-only, no cash is accepted anywhere. There’s a full menu and beer on draught. The saunas are also working, dry and steam, with red spots dotted along the seating for social distancing. Everything is pleasingly civilised, and everyone acts accordingly.
The whirlpool whirls, with plenty of room to dive in and duck out. This palpable sense of strangeness – can I really be sitting in the Széchenyi with hardly anyone around? – is increased by the relative lack of planes flying above. On a flight path into Ferihegy, the spa complex is often one of those enticing scenes you gaze upon from your window seat, your heart skipping a beat as your plane comes in to land. Now flights overhead are quite rare, as if the whole world has abandoned you to your fate, swimming and soaking in relaxed fashion surrounded by Habsburg-era finery.
Széchenyi Baths
District XIV. Állatkerti körút 9-11
Open: daily 9am-7pm
Admission (until 2 August): Mon-Fri 3,500 forints, Sat-Sun 3,900 forints
