French bistro cuisine is a concept that can be all things to all men. In the case of the Corvin Gastropub, even with no mention of the word ‘bistro’, the definition isn’t far off.
Just below Buda Castle, the Corvin is the latest in a line of nearby venues serving select Belgian beers.
In a small interior, they have ten taps, six regular ones and four for guest ales. Beside Hungarian small-batch beers, Czech and German are also available, as well as a specific brew created by a Belgian-Hungarian couple in Bastogne.
For all this lovely beer, the focus is on food. Gábor Tabányi, long-term chef at the Belga Apátsági Söröző, has decided to base his cuisine on the French model rather than the Belgian tradition of cooking with ale.
In an open kitchen, the team works from a menu changed every three months according to season – so the selection is well-chosen but not extensive. There are weekly lunch specials (two courses 2,300 HUF, three 2,800 HUF), which features Hungarian flavours not usually found à la carte. There’s also a separate bar menu, with spreads, ham and mini burgers – but also breaded shrimp with cognac mayonnaise and crunchy bell pepper (2,500 HUF).
The menu currently has a late summer/early autumn feel, so for a starter we opted for the beetroot risotto (2,600 HUF) with goats’ cheese. Although risotto tops many a menu, it’s an easy dish to get wrong. Gábor makes a really decent job of it, indeed: al dente, yet creamy, autumnal but not too earthy. It goes well with the goats’ cheese, crusted on the outside, soft within.
For the main course, we went for fish – mullet (4,000 HUF) is relatively rare on any domestic menu, although thanks to its light, neutral taste it can be chosen by those who are not big fish enthusiasts. It comes with two special garnishes: a piece of extra creamy aubergine caviar and a fennel salad made with white wine, with soft creamy fennel strips and a lemon, olive and white-wine sauce. It is worth asking for a small baguette to accompany, partly because they have delicious, fresh, crusty bread and partly to mop up the lemon sauce on the plate.
For the time being, dessert comprises the safe choices of vanilla or chocolate. Try the sponge cake cooked with fresh basil, stuffed with vanilla mascarpone cream and figs (1,500 HUF) – it’s like a turbo-charged version of creamy puddings from childhood.
Of the 40 wines, most are Hungarian, with a few Italian, Spanish and New Zealand bottles on the industrial-style beverage shelf. New-wave whiskies and gins line the drinks list, too. Gin and tonic is a particularly strong suit – not only is there a variety of tonics, but you can also sample specialities such as a tomato-and-basil or orange-and-clove G&T.
All in all, the Corvin Gastropub is a very pleasant place with a well-conceived food and drinks selection, and frequented by local regulars as well as tourists.
Corvin Gastropub District I. Corvin tér 6 Open: Daily noon-midnight
