There’s farsang – and then there’s Mohács. Hungary’s carnival (‘farsang’) season sees costumed events across Budapest and around the country, through most of January and February until the start of Lent. Of all the bashes, shebangs and balls, the biggest and baddest of the lot takes place in Mohács, the UNESCO-recognised Busójárás, starting this year on 28 February and running until 5 March.
It is no coincidence that Hungary’s wildest farsang takes place here. Mohács is forever associated with two events that changed Hungarian history: the battle of 1526 that saw the Turks invade then conquer Budapest, and the great Ottoman defeat of 1687.
Legend has it that at some point, Mohács menfolk who had been hiding out in the swamps descended upon their home town, dressed in demonic masks, and chased out the Turks.
When coupled with the pagan rites to see off winter and usher in spring, the resulting carnival is both frightening and uplifting, echoing traditions from the deepest, darkest Middle Ages.
Starting this Thursday, Busójárás involves the opening celebrations followed by the Kisfarsang, the Little Carnival, on the Friday. Many visiting from Budapest for the weekend turn up for this one.
The main event takes place on the Sunday, Farsang vasárnap, the parade of locals in gruesome masks, horns and sheepskin, wielding sticks and accompanied by folk music and dancing. Busó teams also arrive from Serbia, Slovenia and Poland, and nearby Croatia.
The annual festivities draw to a close with the Farsangtemetés on the Tuesday. A large bonfire is lit in the main square and the Farsang coffin is burned.
More details including the schedule and local accommodation.
Buses run every 2-3hrs from Budapest Népliget direct to Mohács, journey time 3hrs. Alternatively, take the InterCity train from Budapest Keleti to Pécs (3hrs) then a special direct service to Mohács.
