A dilapidated hangout at the gateway of District VII is now transforming into a destination for fine wines and Hungarian fare. This is Bárka, a recent addition to a Budapest family of hostelries that incorporates the Kadarka bar on Király utca in the same locality and Kadarka Bárka, a summertime hangout on Margaret Island.
Behind the unpretentious façade of this newly opened hangout lies an intriguing interior with traces of bare brick, ripped wallpaper and ramshackle furniture. This resemblance to a ruin pub is the legacy of the former facility that used to merge Aznap bar and Házi/Állat bistro, both since folded.
More recently, the crumbling walls have been accommodating a selection of tannin-rich tipples, each a great accompaniment to distinct items on Bárka’s constantly evolving menu. Bean goulash, roast goose and Magyar fish paprikash are just a few of the dishes that should entice oenophiles to dine out here.
Sitting by the picture windows overlooking the animated side streets and sipping a 2016 Kadarka from the local Balla Géza family winery help filter out the urban sounds of traffic and city life. Adding to the unorthodox atmosphere inside, Communist-era school chairs sit alongside an antiquated dining table in eclectic disorder.
On the wall, a portrayal of 19th-century Hungarian inventor Ányos Jedlik, who pioneered the production of carbonated water on a commercial scale, brings a touch of local history into the scene.
Meanwhile, a mezzanine level offers isolation from the bar crowd and views over the illuminated counter. Spread out below, the area is embellished with vintage publications, and old-fashioned soda bottles alongside spirits, suds and wines, Bárka’s most essential elements.
Looking ahead, the menu should expand with locally caught fish among the options, and slight changes in the design are also in the pipeline. While Bárka is still currently operating in its start-up phase, it has already become a regular haunt for many returning customers. A signal that it’s here to stay.
