There’s farsang – and then there’s Mohács. Hungary’s carnival (‘farsang’) season sees carnival balls across Budapest and around the country, through most of January and February until the start of Lent. Of all the bashes, shebangs and balls, the biggest and baddest of the lot takes place in Mohács, a small town near Pécs two-and-a-half hours from Budapest. UNESCO-recognised Busójárás, starting this year on February 8th and running until the 13th, involves pagan rites, scary masks and seeing off winter and threat from the Ottomans at the same time.

The closest Hungary gets to Rio, Rijeka or Venice in carnival terms, the Busójárás in Mohács dates back to medieval times. It is no coincidence that Hungary’s wildest farsang takes place here. Mohács is forever associated with two history-changing events, the battle of 1526 that saw the Turks invade then conquer Budapest, and the great Ottoman defeat of 1687.

Local lore has it that, at some point in between, Mohács menfolk who had been hiding out in the swamps descended upon their home town, dressed in demonic masks, and chased out the Turks.

Today’s re-enactment of this legend lasts for six days. Starting on the Thursday, Busójárás involves the opening celebrations followed by the Kisfarsang, the Little Carnival, on the Friday. Many visiting from Budapest for the weekend turn up for this one.

The main event takes place on the Sunday, Farsang vasárnap, the parade of locals in gruesome masks, horn and sheeps’ skin bearing sticks, accompanied by folk music and dancing. Busó teams also arrive from Serbia, Slovenia and Poland, and nearby Croatia.

The annual festivities draw to a close with the Farsangtemetés on the Tuesday. A large bonfire is lit in the main square and the Farsang coffin is burned.

More details including local accommodation

Buses run every 2-3hrs from Budapest Népliget direct to Mohács, journey time 3hrs. Alternatively, take the InterCity train from Budapest Keleti to Pécs (3hrs) then a bus to Mohács (1hr).