The celebrations of Yuletide officially begin a full month before 25 December with the onset of Advent. As elsewhere in Europe, families gather on the fourth Sunday before Christmas to create and decorate a horizontal Advent wreath adorned with four candles, lighting a fresh one on every Sabbath leading up to Christmas Day. Here in Hungary, many oversized Advent wreaths are found at Christmas markets and other public spaces.
The next major celebration of Christmas in Hungary is Mikulás Day on 6 December, the feast day of Saint Nicholas (Mikulás in Hungarian), which is when little Magyar boys and girls traditionally expect a visit from the Hungarian version of Santa Claus – along with his beastly buddy Krampusz. (For more details about this custom, check out our earlier article all about Mikulás Day.)
Variations on the Mikulás story are common throughout Central Europe, but one historic Christmastime tradition is quite unique to Hungary, and most likely dates back to pagan times: the building of the Luca Chair.
13 December is the feast day of Saint Lucy (Luca in Hungarian), and while this occasion is celebrated as part of Advent with brilliant candlelit processions in Scandinavian nations and beyond, here this date is a call of duty for one of the world’s most slow-paced DIY projects. According to Magyar tradition, on this day the man of the house should begin gradually building a small stool by using a different type of wood for every piece of lumber needed.
This stool should not be completed until just before it’s time for Midnight Mass at Christmas, at which point the unhurried handyman would bring the newly finished stool to the local church and stand on top of it – when he’d suddenly gain the power to recognise horns on the heads of women who are witches in hiding among the congregation. When these wicked ladies figured that their cover was blown, they’d chase the man back to his home, and the only way he could survive their wrath was to toss the new stool into his fiery hearth.
Considering how much effort goes into this inherently dangerous and ultimately futile Magyar Yuletide tradition, you may understand why it is hardly ever observed here any more, although Luca Chairs are still built by some villagers (but presumably not with intention of burning them to cinders while witches bang down the door).
However, another old-fashioned Hungarian Christmas tradition of mid-December is still practised to some extent in villages nationwide: the Bethlehem Play, which is basically a regional version of carol singing, with children dressing up in folk costumes before going door-to-door to perform Nativity plays, puppet shows or recitals of Magyar poetry, all in hopes of receiving delicious sweets (or even alcohol).
Speaking of Christmas treats, these are just as popular here as anywhere else, with several iconic Magyar-made delights. Similar to gingerbread, mézeskalács cookies are often formed into classic Christmassy shapes such as angels, bells and stars, and are even constructed into houses – but here the decoration of these beautiful biscuits is especially elaborate, with white icing applied in fine patterns evocative of lace.
Instead of candy canes, the typical Christmas confection that doubles as a decoration here is szaloncukor ('parlour candy'), a chocolate-covered fondant available in many flavours and wrapped in colourful shiny paper – however, be warned: the extra sugary szaloncukor may be best left as a holiday bauble.
Another classic Yuletide speciality adored by sweet-toothed celebrants is bejgli, a rolled pastry of sweet yeast bread stuffed with poppy seeds or minced walnuts. Bring one of these to any Hungarian Christmas party, and your warm reception is all but assured.
Hungarian friends and colleagues often gather to celebrate the holiday season in the days before Christmas, but 24 December is the special day reserved for family gatherings – Christmas Eve is when presents are given. Customarily, it is on this night when the Christmas tree is decorated and gifts are arranged by each family’s adults while the kids are kept waiting in another room (under the pretence that Baby Jesus is taking time from his busy schedule to deliver the gifts and adorn the branches; see our aforementioned Mikulás article).
When the ornaments are all hung and the presents are ready, the parents ring a bell and the kids come running out to admire the glory of Noël… before tearing into the packages and comparing their loot like other kids the world over. (Devout families will then attend Midnight Mass, but they usually leave any magical chairs at home.)
Shops and business close around lunchtime on the 24th, and public transport stops mid-afternoon. Few places are open, save for hotel restaurants and the occasional bar – see our article on this year's seasonal parties here.
Traditional dishes for the Christmas meal at home include fish soup, roast turkey and stuffed cabbage, followed by the sweets described above.
Christmas Day is generally a relaxed affair here in Hungary, as kids play with their new toys and more holiday fare is devoured.
And happily enough, even though there is no Boxing Day here, 26 December is also a national holiday in Hungary. Many go out to party – but you'll have to take your own mistletoe to score a Christmas kiss as this amorous Western tradition is unknown to the vast majority of Magyars.
