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In the green slopes between Gellért Hill and the foot of Buda Castle, you can find Tabán, a once bustling waterside quarter with a Balkan atmosphere, its tightly spaced smoky taverns knocked down between the wars. Today, it’s a recreational area for picnics and concerts, with its own annual Tabán festival, and the Tabán Art Cinema. There are also Turkish baths here, such as the Rudas and the soon-to-be-revived Rácz.

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