The Kelet Café & Gallery is one of the busiest spots on trendy Bartók Béla út, no idle boast. Although the place is not a bookstore by definition, its collection contains some 5-6,000 volumes. Apart from providing an erudite backdrop, this functions as a self-service library: guests can exchange any book for their own, so the stock changes day by day. The coffee is supplied by Casino Mocca, the Dutch premium cocoa and chocolate by Tibor Szántó, the sweets by Édes Sári, and the beers come from two small Czech breweries. The menu features grilled sandwiches and Eastern platters. 'Sandwiches' is doing this selection a great disservice: green-curry spicy cheese spread on sourdough, and spicy Indonesian peanut butter are regular choices, along with egg curry masala and smoked catfish. The pleasant interior is inviting, and you'll be hard pushed to find a spare table on the pavement terrace of an evening.

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