The Csiga ('Snail') anchors a corner of Rákóczi tér, alongside the market. Its décor of wacky art helps along a gentle bohemian ambience, a touch of class added by the wrought-iron staircase leading to sought-after tables in the gallery. This was once a solid drinking option in District VIII – now the focus is on food. Staff are superfriendly, their names found on a menu also listing an attractive selection of substantial breakfasts, soups, salads and carefully conceived mains. Check the board for specials. Custom, a nice mix of Magyar and international, is constant, and extremely busy at weekends.

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