Every November 11th, the Magyars commemorate St. Martin of Tours, one of Hungary’s patron saints born within this nation’s boundaries, who was canonized for his good deeds and benevolence. This year marks the 1,700th anniversary of the ecclesiastic’s birth, who is celebrated with colorful programs countrywide, while those who want to join feasts in Budapest can relish gluttonous holiday gatherings with gourmet goose dishes and fine wines, including attending a traditional alfresco extravaganza, a lavish wine festival, and delightful dinner events at many of the city’s prominent eateries.
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Born in AD 316 in what is now the Hungarian city of Szombathely (formerly known as Savaria), during his young years St. Martin left the military to instead set off on a religious path. St. Martin took sides against the heretic Arian movement, causing his expulsion from Savaria and forcing him to seek shelter on an island in the Ligurian Sea, where he lived as a hermit for awhile. When he embarked on a journey to preach and convert pagans throughout Western Gaul, St. Martin gained lots of followers, but legend has it that when they wanted him to become the Bishop of Tours, he tried to avoid taking the role by hiding in a goose pen – however, his whereabouts was soon revealed by the honking animals, prompting a lasting tradition in Hungary where St. Martin’s Day is celebrated by devouring diverse goose dishes; according to folk customs, it is considered the last excessive feast before the Advent Lent. As the saying goes, “Those who don’t eat goose on St. Martin’s Day will go hungry the following year.”
Here in Budapest, several events ensure that we can binge on traditional edibles on St. Martin’s Day and beyond, as the city offers diverse programs to commemorate Hungary’s patron saint, with most of the feasts centered around assorted goose-based meals and fresh wines.
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6th St. Martin’s Day Wine Festival
Every year, some of the country’s best wineries fill the splendid Danubius Hotel Gellért for an extended weekend to offer aromatic libations, while renowned representatives of the local gastronomy scene serve delicate bites to those who join the hotel's lavish St. Martin’s Day festival. This year, the celebrations at the Gellért span November 10-13 with the presence of some 100 wineries, and such renowned Budapest eateries as Lakatos Műhely, Zing Burger, or Steamboo. Tickets are still available for the festival, and those who attend day 0 of the event can enjoy a special beer course with artisanal beers provided by the Zirc Abbey. On Friday and Saturday, local music masters spin discs to wrap up the day with a grand after party, while the festival is completed with a Sunday Brunch featuring a smorgasbord focused on goose specialties, along with unlimited consumption of select drinks. Visit www.borfesztivalgellert.hu to reserve tickets for the event.
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Festival of the Goose and New Wine
Take a day trip from Budapest to a nearby village and get into the whirlwind of a real local hootenanny amid authentic settings at Szentendre’s Skanzen Museum, located just over 20 kilometers from downtown Budapest. At this alfresco exhibition ground, Magyar folklore comes alive within a recreated village of centuries-old Hungarian homes, providing an authentic backdrop for celebrating St. Martin’s Day. During the two-day event during November 12-13, visitors can sample a variety of goose dishes while enjoying several autumn-time favorites, like baked pumpkin or roasted chestnut, plus fine Magyar wines are served to accompany the delightful bites. During the event, folk-music bands and various folk-arts demonstrations entertain guests. Log onto www.skanzen.hu to learn more about the venue.
How to get there:
From Budapest's Batthyány Square take the HÉV commuter train to the Szentendre terminus; the journey takes about 40 minutes. From the Szentendre HÉV station, find bus stop number 7 and take the local bus to the Skanzen.
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St. Martin’s Day Goose Festival
During November 18-20, several Hungarian traditions are evoked in honor of St. Martin at the fabulous Vajdahunyad Castle in Budapest’s sprawling City Park. Attractions include a handicraft fair, a petting zoo of geese, and various workshops, where children can prepare traditional sweets, among many other creative activities. A farmer’s market features select Magyar-made treats, like honey and cheese, while on the festival grounds visitors can devour assorted goose-based delicacies. Folk-music performances and a selection of fresh wine, beer, and pálinka specialties help grown-ups loosen up during the three-day extravaganza, but best of all, entrance to the event is free of charge. See www.facebook.com/martonnap for more information about the festival.
