There is no shortage of eateries in Hungary’s capital where we can dine and wine in gardens under open skies during the pleasant summer months. Oftentimes these lush locales are hidden behind urban scenery or found far away from downtown, but once we discover them, such tasteful terraces are wonderful for relishing customary regional cuisine amid tree-shaded splendor, with the flower-scented summer breeze intermingling with aromas of sizzling grilled meat in the air. Here are a few of Budapest’s best alfresco restaurants, whether you prefer family-friendly feasting or fine dining.
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Csalánosi Csárda
If your primary expectation of Hungarian cuisine is to receive vast portions, this is the right place to come. Csalánosi Csárda offers gigantic servings, as if we were enjoying supreme Hungarian hospitality at the home of any local. Found beside a well-preserved cobblestoned square of central Óbuda, this place is definitely evocative of an old rural inn (“csárda” in Hungarian), with wooden tables on the secluded patio and regular live music. The kitchen’s speciality is creating plentiful pork dishes, and you are sure to get good value for money here – especially if you go for their signature dish, the “Csalánosi platter” for two. Interestingly, the surrounding area is built up with towering communist-era panel buildings, so a visit to this place is a real journey through time.
Address: Budapest 1033, Hídfő Street 16
Telephone: +3620 955 5565
Directions: Take the H5 HÉV train towards Szentendre from the Buda side of Margaret Bridge to the Szentlélek tér stop, then walk five minutes along Tavasz utca until turning right on Hídfő utca
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Fenyőgyöngye
High up in the hills above Óbuda, the Fenyőgyöngye Restaurant is surrounded by pristine woodlands and rugged trails, making this a favorite of hikers – especially since the terrace seating here seamlessly blends the indoors and outdoors. Time seems to stand still here since the restaurant’s 1935 debut, with the design being genuinely retro; the serenely beautiful garden continues this timeless appeal with its colorful flowers, trees, and a gazebo. Guests cannot dine in the actual garden, but the open-air terrace tables have direct views to the soothing greenery, while the culinary lineup includes classic stews and hearty deep-fried dishes. Bargain-hunters with time to come here during weekday afternoons will definitely enjoy the 990-forint lunch menu offer, providing five separate three-course meals to choose from every day.
Address: Budapest 1025, Szépvölgyi Avenue 155
Telephone: +361 325 9783
Directions: Take bus 65 from Kolosy tér to the Fenyőgyöngye stop
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Gundel
Our list wouldn’t be complete without including the legendary Gundel Restaurant within the boundaries of City Park. With its historic building and classic cuisine, this is a one-of-a-kind destination that is included in the itinerary of many visitors, but during summer months guests from near and far enjoy Gundel’s recently refurbished flowery garden, enhanced by animal sounds spilling over from the adjacent Budapest Zoo. The menu presents a wide range of Hungarian delicacies like the slow-cooked goose liver, the paprika-chicken duo, and the classic walnut crépe à la Gundel, which can all be paired with top Magyar-made wines to complete this exclusive experience. The restaurant offers an all-you-can-eat Sunday-brunch buffet for 7,900 forints, which can also be enjoyed in the terrace area when the weather is warm.
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Kéhli
Many of Óbuda’s most charming neighborhoods were sadly lost to the ravages of Budapest’s turbulent history, but in a small section of this district a few charming old buildings still line cobblestoned streets – and this area is home to the prominent Kéhli Restaurant. This country-style inn offers Hungarian classics like bone-marrow soup or stuffed cabbage along with a solid choice of Hungarian wines, and here a rustic chestnut-tree-fringed patio provides an escape from modern times every evening, as the tables are illuminated by candlelight and a Gypsy-music band plays evergreen tunes – creating an atmosphere similar to how the place must have been while noted Magyar author Gyula Krúdy was dining (and drinking) here about a century ago.
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Náncsi Néni
Tucked between residential homes in the hinterland of Buda’s District II, this countryside-style eatery makes guests feel like they’re sitting in grandma’s front garden – encircled by shady trees, the romantically rustic terrace-seating area certainly has a homey atmosphere. The owners proudly preserve old-time Hungarian recipes, and as a result guests always get something traditional and tasty from Auntie Náncsi’s pantry. Start off with the golden chicken broth, then move on to the crispy fried duck, and for dessert, don’t miss the sweet dumplings made with local túró cheese. As it takes a little while to get there from the city center, a trip to Náncsi Néni provides a perfect weekend getaway into the Buda Hills, best enjoyed with family and friends.
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Pierrot
If you want to eat alfresco in style, head up to the Castle District to enjoy a gourmet meal in a refined environment near the Matthias Church and Fishermen’s Bastion. Pierrot is a family-owned restaurant dating back three decades, presenting epicurean reinterpretations of regional meals from the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy era. A visit here during the summer months is a pleasant and relaxing experience, when guests can relax amid an emerald-green lawn in their secret garden away from the city buzz, surrounded by centuries-old stone walls. Here separate lunch and dinner menus offer dishes that utilize super-fresh ingredients produced by local farms – try the new-wave “Pierrot goulash”, followed by a seasonal specialty at lunchtime or the beef tenderloin for dinner, all accompanied by some of Hungary’s finest wines.
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Remetekert
Housed in an old mansion with a bourgeois interior, the Remetekert Restaurant in Buda’s District II may appear to be fancy at first glance, but the atmosphere is actually quite friendly – as are the prices. In the spacious garden, guests can enjoy barbecued specialties roasted in the open air and dine on them under the pleasing shade of pine trees, while foodies can opt for the delicious duck liver served cold with red-onion jam, followed by the venison stew cooked in red wine. On Saturdays and Sundays we can enjoy special weekend offers, while during weekdays a two-course daily menu is available for 1,190 forints. Beside the delicious meals, there is a nice selection of local and imported wines to accompany our culinary adventure.
Address: 1029 Budapest, Máriaremetei Street 186-188.
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