Gozsdu-udvar can best be described as the beating heart of downtown Budapest. It’s the most famous passageway in the Hungarian capital and the gate to the 7th district, always buzzing with life, showing a different face every hour. This November, we explored six of its vibrant spots, in search of international cuisine. We tasted pancake sushi and authentic Italian pasta, munched on the crunchy cousin of Wiener Schnitzels, and immersed ourselves in the unique atmosphere of the lush Nika, the cheerful Meshuga, and the 60s America-esque Klikk.

One of the best things about Gozsdu-udvar is that no matter what we’re looking for, we’ll surely find it in one of the seven buildings and six interconnected courtyards – if we don’t get lost in the passageways between Király utca and Dob utca. To make sure that doesn’t happen, we’ve put together an unofficial itinerary of where to go to experience Gozsdu’s multicultural vibes. Along with trying two new eateries, Nika and Buja Disznó(k), we returned to some of our favourites for a delicious bite or two, including Blue Bird Cafe, 2 Spaghi, Meshuga, and Klikk.

Blue Bird Cafe: Pancake sushi for breakfast

Blue Bird Cafe, which made its debut in Budapest ten years ago in specialty coffee, now has several spots in Gozsdu and Budapest. They’re almost impossible to miss, but if you stumble into their karaoke rooms while looking for Blue Bird Cafe, you’ll surely be getting some friendly directions. Especially if you’re after the brunch and artisan coffee spot’s staple dish, pancake sushi. Yes, you read right, it’s pancake sushi. According to the Blue Bird saga, this dish was born when then-manager Viktor Bitter asked the chef to prepare a creative, unique breakfast – say, pancake sushi. Perhaps he was most surprised when the dish he requested came to life. It was over a decade ago, and pancake sushi has been a hit ever since. Now we know why!

The portions are generous and the presentation is so artistic that we hardly dared to taste it, afraid to ruin the work of art. But it’s worth a bite (or more)! Only with chopsticks, though, it’s sushi after all. The sweetness of the banana and Nutella filling is completed with the vanilla dip, which is perfectly complemented by sour fruits, like lyophilized raspberries, pear, kiwi, and dragon fruit. The fruits change seasonally and a new biscuit version is coming soon. And the best part? Pancake sushi is available all day, not just for breakfast.

2 Spaghi: A taste of Italia

After a sweet breakfast, a quick and light lunch is in order, especially if it’s authentic Italian pasta. The owners of 2 SpaghiAlessandro, Jacopo, and Matteo, are three good friends from Milan, who bring the real taste of Italy to Gozsdu. This eatery is just as tiny as it is charming and cosy. A variety of fresh homemade pasta greets you from the moment you enter.

At 2 Spaghi, every bite is made with true Italian passion. There’s no set menu, as the sauces change daily. One thing is constant, though: the pasta is freshly made every morning! By the time the place opens, the counter is stuffed with tagliatelle, spaghetti, penne, and ravioli with spinach and seasonal fillings, like pumpkin. All that is topped with homemade sauce and Parmesan cheese, and there you have it, a quick, nutritious, and incredibly delicious Italian meal. 2 Spaghi is exactly what you’d expect from an authentic Italian pasta place: loud, passionate, a little chaotic but very friendly and lovable. You can even take a piece of it with you if you want. The eatery’s bio corner by the entrance is fully stocked with tomato sauce, olive oil, and homemade jam. Plus, you can buy fresh pasta, too.

Buja Disznó(k): The Hungarian take on crunchy schnitzels

Breading and deep-frying everything is a very Hungarian habit. ‘Rántott hús’, a close cousin of Wiener Schnitzel is the highlight of Hungarian Sunday family lunches. Buja Disznó(k) builds on this very tradition, bringing quality rántott hús to the gastro scene of Budapest since 2015. Today you can taste their crunchy delicacies in several locations in the city – in Fény utca Market, in Hello Buda, in the City Park, and since November, also in Gozsdu.

The eatery’s name, which literally translates to ‘Lustful Pig(s)’ suggests that the main ingredient here is pork – always served in huge slices and of excellent quality. The crispy, golden brown meat goes perfectly with Viennese potato salad, but you can also ask for fries as a side. If you’d rather munch on a vegetarian breaded treat, try ‘lallipop’, which is a special fried cheese served with tartare sauce and lettuce. No matter which dish you pick, the flavours and texture are impeccable at Buja Disznó(k). They offer Hungarian flavours with a modern twist that stands out even on the bubbly and colourful culinary map of Gozsdu. And speaking of bubbles, Buja Disznó(k)’s raw champagne, Francois, is an excellent choice to up the ante on a casual Sunday lunch or to stir you in the right direction at night. Aether, a key spot in Budapest’s techno scene, is just beneath the eatery, after all.

Meshuga: A symphony of flavours

Meshuga resides on the Holló utca side of Gozsdu, offering a casual, shared plate experience with Israeli flavours at its center, along with Turkish and Arab culinary influences. The essence of this place is best described by its name: the Yiddish word for crazy or scatty is used entirely in the positive sense here, referring to the relaxed atmosphere. Meshuga is just that: a chic yet cosy and genuinely cheerful place with a zest for life radiating from every corner.

It’s hard to pick just one dish at Meshuga, as sharing food, a staple of Middle Eastern eateries, is key here too. Let’s take the mouth-watering mezze selection, among which you can find eggplant carpaccio (charcoal-burnt eggplant topped with raw tahini, date molasses, tulum cheese, hazelnuts, and dried roses). As a main course, we recommend kebab Yehudit, which is incredibly delicious and rich in flavours. It’s beef kebab grilled over charcoal with green tahini, amba, sumac onion, tomato salsa, and herb mix, served with laffa bread. You can rarely taste so many flavours in one dish! Yet at Meshuga, it’s not the only plate where you can indulge in up to six or seven different flavours at once. Their fish sashimi promises a similarly intense culinary experience enhanced with avocado cream, radish, soy vinaigrette, burnt orange, ginger crumble, and lemongrass. Meshuga really is more than a restaurant: it’s an experience where flavours, music, company, and cocktails all come together to create an unforgettable experience. Places like this are best enjoyed with company, exploring the symphony of flavours together.

Nika: The scene for romantic, sexy rendezvous

If you’re looking for a friendly, relaxed, and bohemian restaurant to hang out at around Gozsdu, Nika is the place to be. The Zsidai family’s newest downtown restaurant opened right across from one of their other spots in Gozsdu, Spíler Original, offering the same great Spíler experience. Nika opened in the former Spíler Shanghai which continues in the basement as Spíler Shanghai Secret Bar, a stylish event hall, ideal for all sorts of events, including private birthday parties with up to 120 guests. 

The culinary direction of Nika is centred around Latin American and Asian gastronomy, bringing together the best ingredients and cultural encounters to create truly colourful gastronomy. But more is going on at Nika than delicious food. Nika’s dishes set the scene for romantic encounters. Chipotle chicken wings, for example, are an ideal choice if you’re looking for a shareable, snackable meal you and your date can accidentally reach at once. The main courses here are also not easy to choose from. Among the tempting and piquant grills and roasts, you should certainly try pork katsu with wasabi fries, Japanese radish, and homemade sweet and sour sauce. A similarly great choice is BBQ pork ribs with spicy baked onion beans. And for lovers of Hungarian food, we recommend beef stew served with buttered parsley potatoes and pickled cucumber. Besides meat dishes, vegetarians and vegans can also find something delicious to their taste. And for dessert, make sure to taste the sweet doughnuts with raspberry sauce and homemade ice cream with vanilla from Madagascar. Nika is also an ideal spot for a pre-party, with a DJ on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 18:30, but you can also end the night here as their kitchen is open until 11:30 pm.

Klikk: Time travel to Sixties America - before or after a party

Day or night, life never stops in Gozsdu. That’s why we love those solid spots in the passages that we can count on before and after a party. Klikk is exactly that kind of place. It brings the atmosphere of a bistro bar with the vibes of 60s America to Budapest, serving the crowds from 9 am till 4 am. You can pop in for a hearty breakfast, a casual lunch, a pre-party snack, or a few cocktails – any day of the week.

Klikk’s extensive breakfast menu includes eggs Benedict, omelet variations, and sandwiches, along with Hungarian or English breakfasts. For lunch, you can pick from a selection of pizza and pasta, including Mac&Cheese, which is a must-try in a bistro bar. For more classic flavours, you can go for one of the many Hungarian and international dishes on the menu. The goulash soup, the chicken paprikash, and the duck thigh with red cabbage and mash are prepared with the same care as the cheeseburger with crispy fries and mixed salad. Plus, Klikk’s cocktails are an excellent way to start the night.

With such a colourful gastronomic palette, everyone can find their place in Gozsdu - any day, at any hour. Besides the many restaurants and nightclubs, the arcades also hide hip exhibition spaces, and often other activities, like vintage and crafts fairs, so it's worth returning again and again. And with the festive season just around the corner, it's time for Gozsdu's Christmas fair!

(Cover photo: Bodorkós Máté - We Love Budapest)

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