Chef Ákos Tasnádi is already known to some – recently he was in charge of the kitchen at Macesz Huszár before taking over the new-wave butcher’s shop, Cupákos. When news came that Cupákos would be closing, it was to the disappointment of many. But thanks to a recent makeover, Cupákos hasn't closed its doors forever, just evolved into its next configuration.
The old Cupákos was known for classically Hungarian gastronomy, but the age of sausages, cold sides and plenty of mustard is coming to an end, and in a place like the party district, it’s important for eateries to stay current. This was the inspiration behind the Dobka metamorphosis, which has turned out to be a great success.
The interior is completely unrecognisable from its previous life – gone are the white tiles, replaced by wood finishing and a colour palette of greens, browns and cool greys. And although it’s located right in Budapest's bar vortex, the calm interior will encourage you to stay after your meal for a glass of wine and a comfortable chat.
Chef Ákos is very particular about the menu: he didn’t want the place to fall into any specific theme, so Hungarian food appears alongside Italian, Arabic, Jewish and Far-Eastern. The result is an eclectic, international kitchen. The menu itself is short, but constantly changing, so you never feel limited. It may feel weird at first to see Hungarian goulash next to Italian noodles, but don’t be alarmed – with Chef Ákos, you’re in good hands.
Cold duck liver (2,690 HUF) is the first menu item on the summer list – the creamy liver accompanied by green apple chutney and sourdough bread is excellent for a warm summer day, and the tatár beefsteak (2,990) combines French and Hungarian traditions with perfect execution.
While you can’t get it any more, it’s worth mentioning the fantastic ramen which appeared on the winter menu – a light vegetable soup with wakame and mace dumplings for 1,690 forints. The soup has a wonderful deep-brown colour, due to the wide variety of roasted vegetables and soy sauce.
The prince-of-crab homemade pasta (2,990 HUF) sounds Italian at first, but it’s a fusion of many elements. The dough is halfway between fettuccini and tagliatelle, and the cream-cheese sauce is packed with garlic and king prawns in olive oil.
Not to be missed is the duck breast with red-wine cherries and arancini (3,990 HUF). It’s got a nostalgic feel to it in a way, reminiscent of the meal after the soup. Everything is seasonal, so the cherries are currently in their prime.
For those who loved the old butcher’s shop, the good news is that a trace of its former life still exists on the menu. The goulash soup and iconic beer knuckle from Cupákos (3,990 HUF) is alive and well on the Dobka menu. The meat falls off the bone thanks to its 11-hour cooking time, with creamy mashed potatoes and homemade pickles on the side. Ákos obtains the pork knuckle – as well as all the meat in the kitchen and much of the other raw materials – from small domestic producers.
Once we get to the desserts, we’re greeted by the Middle-Eastern coconut milk mahlab (1,490 HUF), a pudding with apricots and thyme biscuit crumbs sprinkled on top.
Once your meal is finished, it’s worth staying for a drink or two. The wine list is predominately made up of Hungarian varieties, and the cocktails are made according to the instructions of expert Hungarian mixologist András Ódor. While cocktails aren’t the main emphasis here, it’s still nice to appreciate a high-quality beverage when it’s available.
Dobka Bistro
District VII. Dob utca 31
Open: Wed-Thur 5pm-11pm, Fri-Sun noon-11pm
