Restaurants can be left behind by any new gastronomic revolution, and once popular dishes become footnotes on the menu. Róbert Bilics, founder of the Chagall Café, can testify to that. But, working in hospitality all his life, instead of leaving this field he decided to start something completely new.
After talking with friends and conducting customer surveys, it became clear that those living with gluten and lactose allergies are often neglected by the plethora of local restaurants – or offered just one or two options on the menu. This then became the basis for the Kata Restaurant.
According to Róbert, it took three months to revamp the interior into its current form, but it was worth it. The fire-enamel detail, the tiles in warm tones and the mirror surfaces make the place homely, and ideal for lounging around after a hearty dinner or lunch. We had a nice time just sitting here – although pleasant post-meal satisfaction may have contributed.
We ordered a seasonal fruit soup with home-made whipped cream and roast almonds (1,450 HUF) and received a pleasantly cool, flavourful and substantial dish. As the weather gets warmer, we’ll surely return for more of same. Then we decided to get on with the main dishes, skipping the traditional grey-cattle broth (1,890 HUF) and the guinea-fowl consommé with ginger (1,600 HUF).
However strange it might sound to pair Dijon mustard with salmon (4,200 HUF), it works perfectly – the mustard crust gives the fish a fresh taste and, instead of rice or potatoes, the side dish is a healthy quinoa salad.
The vegetarian burger (2,700 HUF) arrives in a gluten-free bun, of course, plus plenty of smoked tofu and fresh vegetables. The smoked salmon with herb cream cheese (2,450 HUF) is also excellent, accompanied by a salad with lime dressing.
Though we were also toying with the idea of ordering a three-month-aged sirloin steak with goose liver, green pea mousse and rosemary steak potatoes (7,900 HUF) or a fried free-range chicken breast with cucumber salad and steamed jasmine rice (3,100 HUF), we only had room for dessert.
Hungarian Somlói sponge cake (1,450 HUF) and the chocolate fondant with vanilla custard and roast pecans (1,800 HUF) were both great choices. The latter is not completely lactose-free, so if you’re sensitive to the smallest amount, you should choose another option. Everything else on the menu, however, is safe for everyone. They also have a two-item daily lunch menu (1,450 HUF), consisting of à la carte dishes and daily specials.
Kata Restaurant District VI. Hajós utca 27
Open: Daily noon-11.30pm