If your mouth waters when you see massive amounts of melted cheese, you will love Budapest’s new restaurant, Holló és Róka (The Raven and the Fox) that specialises in raclette. Derived from the French verb ‘racler’, meaning ‘to scrape’, this sensational Swiss delicacy is a semi-hard cheese that is normally fashioned into a large wheel, cut in half, heated above fire and as its surface slowly melts, it is scraped onto potatoes, cold meats, veggies and other fine foods. Recently opened Holló és Róka makes quality raclette – providing another excuse to visit restaurant-lined Ráday utca.
From a gastronomic point of view, Kálvin tér, adjoining Ráday utca and surroundings, have seen the busiest action in Budapest over the first months of 2018. This is where Matrjoska set up a vegan street-food place, where Don Doko Don launched a Japanese street-food bistro, where hot-brew bar Filtery opened and where bubble waffle popped up for the first time in town thanks to Waffle & Love. And now, raclette melts hearts and cheese on Ráday. Let’s see this one more time: mouthwatering melted cheese – and lots of it – covers potatoes or homemade bread like a warm blanket... it just doesn't get any better. Oh wait, there is also an abundance of wine, too.
The only alteration at Holló és Róka is that the cheese they use is not Swiss as suggested in authentic recipes but Hungarian as, after several tastings, the two founding honchos decided that it was simply better than the Swiss variety they had. It is flavoursome and creamy. You can try it on classic (1,990 HUF) or matured ham (2,390 HUF) plates, both more hearty than they first seem, or can have it as a sandwich withhomemade bread (1,190 HUF) or homemade red onion jam (1,390 HUF).
Another must-try is the Camambert grilled with rosemary, garlic and olive oil, served with fresh baguette (1,190 HUF); crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside, perfect to pair with dark beer. Given everything already mentioned, it is no surprise that the homemade cheese selection (1,890 HUF) is heavenly – and served with olives and bread.
The menu at Holló és Róka features other exciting dishes as well: the pork ribs slow-roasted with orange (1,390 HUF) are excellent, sticky, saucy and melt-in-the-mouth. Crab tails roasted in extra virgin olive oil (1,390 HUF) with garlic, chili, basil and cherry tomatoes are perfect with rum.
The lamb medallions (1,290 HUF) come served in a herby yoghurt sauce. Order this superb dish with toast as you will want to savour the sauce until the last drop. Holló és Róka offers lunch specials between 11:30am and 2:30pm for 1,290 HUF, a cream soup and grilled sandwich combo with a glass of homemade syrup or craft coffee.
The pretty interior is mostly dominated by wood, while the theme, inspired by La Fontaine’s fable The Raven and the Fox, is tastefully depicted with bohemian touches. The drink list is also impressive, with wine taking up almost three whole pages – but the rum and beer selection is also significant.
All in all, anyone visiting Holló és Róka can look forward to a cosy, fuss-free and belly-filling dining experience.
Holló és Róka
Address: District IX. Ráday utca 23.
Opening Hours: Monday-Thursday: 11:30am - 11pm, Friday: 11:30am - midnight, Saturday: 3pm - midnight, Sunday: closed