For more than two decades, a magical Christmas place has been hidden in plain sight on Budapest’s Grand Boulevard. At Játékszerek Anno, ‘Toys of Yesteryear’, you can find the playthings that thrilled generations of Hungarians down the ages, from space rockets to music boxes. We visit this old curiosity shop and find out what makes it tick.

Krisztina Majercsik wanted to do something a little more fun than what Budapest’s Technical University trained her for – so she discovered the wonderful world of toys. At the time, there were hardly any books on the subject in Hungarian, so she and her husband travelled to Germany’s niche museums and wrote a little history, Régi, érdekes játekok (‘Fascinating Old Toys’) in the 1980s.

The shop they opened in 1996 had a twin mission. First, it staged a series of small, themed exhibitions in the shop window, focusing on a particular era or type of toy. At the same time, their private collection grew steadily, as they worked together with museums. Thanks to their persistent research, they became the go-to option for anyone needing vintage toys. Their figures have featured on stage and in film, such as in The Nutcracker and in hit Hungarian movie Hídember.

Interestingly, early toys were not based on newly discovered effects or mechanical knowledge but rather provided social entertainment for the grown-ups. From the 1800s, Nuremberg became the stronghold of the industry, where local craftsmen produced toys in ever-increasing numbers. Exports went to the Hungarian market, among others. The first toy stores in Budapest were the Árkád Bazár on the corner of Síp and Dohány utca, where a gorgeous Zsolnay façade still depicts a rocking horse and toy soldiers, and the Ezermester Bazár on central Vörösmarty tér.

The end of the 19th century saw small-scale production in Hungary. Krisztina has collected more than 1,000 names from 1896 to 1947, collated from books, archives and old magazines dealing with toy design and production in Hungary. She also found detailed designs in Art-Nouveau style, plans that remained locked away in the drawer because their very unique character meant that they would not have competed in an ever-busier market place.

One particular early domestic success were the ANKER construction sets, created to high technical precision. Not unlike LEGO, they allowed kids to build man-made structures, following the detailed plans on the box. Accessories also became immensely popular.

The first spectacular mass production came with mechanical toys, produced in Győr and loved by generations. Most were copies of Western or later Japanese favourites, except for the iconic Roli Zoli, a clown on a scooter. At Játékszerek Anno, you can also find a Budapest traffic game, with landmarks such as Vajdahunyad Castle in the background.

István Karle’s candle ship, perfect for bath time, is another retro classic, as is the Moon Rocket, whose unwrapping would have caused such glee in Hungarian households in the post-Gagarin era.

Also on the shelves are Merkur and JAVA construction games, Matchbox and toy cars, games of logic and patience, and all kinds of music boxes featuring figurines from snowballs to ballerinas.

Note that many of these vintage items – though reproduced in modern times to specific standards – are more suited to the nostalgia market than for practical use by children today.

Játékszerek Anno District VI. Teréz körút 54

Open: Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat 10am-2pm