It seems only yesterday that Portuguese-Brazilian chef André Bicalho took over the kitchen at upscale restaurant Baraka in Dorottya utca in Budapest’s city centre. Exemplary professionalism, precision, even playfulness, have underscored his work ever since – and now a new summer menu is particularly cheerful, with fruit brought to the fore. Nor have the solid rules of dining have been forgotten, here under the long and illustrious stewardship of Baraka’s husband-and-wife owners Leora and David Seboek.
Trying things out and experimenting is a lengthy process here at Baraka – in fact, chef André Bicalho has even written about his inspiration for the new menu, involving personal ties and fantasies. This concise text can be read by each guest before perusing the menu, and before the tablecloths of this fine-dining restaurant are transformed into a culinary cavalcade of cocktails and colourful invention played out on a big wheel. As in any fine art, the creator likes to explain and put the finished work into context.
Sitting in the bar area here is always a delight, allowing you to see the dishes in a natural light – and is particularly opportune as far as the summer menu is concerned. Even before the amuse bouches, a couple of drinks will be served, prepared with particular dishes of the new selection in mind. Frozen Heart has a base of gin, rum and prosecco, and comes with a mini ice-cream bonbon.
Another favourite is George in Japan, comprising George Clooney Casamigos tequila, hibiscus, Vermouth and calamansi foam. It’s a cocktail that takes no prisoners, where sweet meets sour, and the glass getting a little lavender oil on the rim. Either it will become your drink du jour or you would rather not cross paths with it again. In the spirit of play, you may also sample gin that changes colour, bright blue Portuguese Sharish turning pink with the effect of the tonic.
After this liquid magic comes the aforementioned big wheel, a childhood toy of funfair lore, packed with amuse bouches: crab macarons, yuzu marshmellows and swinging bonbons in edible foil. The sweet theme is continued with cantaloupe soup, flavoured with lemon and coconut, imbued with ginger ice cream.
Then comes a dish with tomato textures, followed by Norwegian lobster or curry. One of the finest goose livers of recent years sits alongside rhubarb and blackcurrant on a plate bursting with colour. Contrasting it is French foie gras in the style of graffiti. Three discs of Saint Jacques scallops then appear with dashi Japanese stock, radish and passion fruit.
Atlantic hake is accompanied by a side of buckwheat, brought out by Asian five spice-liquorice. New Zealand lamb chops with a carrot and orange-pepper spice is embellished with a sauce of Tokyo Lemonade craft beer. Served as a main course, the octopus is attractive and tasty.
Dessert might involve popcorn ice cream with caramel and lychee, or with coffee, Kahlua, rum, calamansi and kumquat.
Every course is an adventure in flavours, an example of how high Baraka has set the bar. The summer menu runs the whole gamut between sweet and sour, suiting a particular occasion, a special dinner and a gourmet experience.
Baraka, District V, Dorottya utca 6
Open: Mon-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
