Don’t panic – this eatery has nothing to do with the Soviet Union security agency; the name is simply an abbreviation for Kálvin Gastro Bistro. Following a new Budapest trend of renowned chefs abandoning the strict fine-dining world for something more relaxed, three close foodsmith friends recently decided to fulfill their dreams by launching a restaurant where they themselves would like to be regulars. Their main motivation is to let guests leave with a smile on their face, not only painted by the fine wines, but also by the delicious dishes that comprise KGB’s cool cuisine.
Imre Nyúzó, Dávid Redler, and Tibor Tóth have been friends for quite a while, and they are also familiar with each other’s work and expertise. Their names might sound familiar from Babel, Laci!Konyha, Olimpia, or Costes, as they previously worked at the best restaurants of Budapest. KGB is their first shared project, and first great love. Despite coming from the world of fine dining, the boys are bohemian souls, and they wanted to launch a locale where they can realize their more unique, sometimes slightly less sophisticated ideas, and where they can create cool flavor combinations that they never had a chance to dream of before. They absolutely live up to all professional requirements, and now they can also let their fantasy unwind; fortunately, the owner, Kiatipisz Szotirisz, also supports the boys’ endeavors.
KGB awaits guests from the morning through the evening at Kálvin Square. In the morning, coffee plays the main role here, lunch specials steal the limelight around noon, and at night the á la carte menu and the delicious drinks charm guests, as after all, this place is still a pub where the meals just happen to be mouthwatering. Or, maybe it’s a restaurant where the drinks are high-quality, but still not too expensive? Actually, we don’t think that it needs to be put in a category; KGB is free-spirited and easygoing. The interior is simple; it is not overcomplicated, and thanks to the wooden surfaces, the atmosphere feels homey, even despite a few industrial elements.
Surely KGB does not position their prices towards the sky; the drinks have an average price for District IX, while the dishes are less expensive than what we usually find around this part of town. The meals await in portions to be prepared à la minute with the sous-vide cooking technique, guaranteeing fast service and high quality. KGB operates a fusion kitchen, as the boys draw inspiration from the gastronomy of several different countries. However, browsing through their menu, the basis is still Hungarian.
We visited KGB on the night before the opening, and were fortunate enough to taste several dishes to really see what the cuisine is like. The contrast between the easygoing atmosphere and the presentation of the meals is surprising. The servings are not overly artistic, but they are well thought out. We tried the KGB Beefsteak Tartare (1,690 HUF), which comes with browned sourdough bread. It is creamy, and the flavor of the beef comes through well. Something we were truly curious about was the Hungarian-style tripe (1,400 HUF) served with capers, and with the same tasty bread – it is a saucy dish, perfect for dipping, and is worthwhile to try even for those who are not so keen on it at first sight. It is spiced slightly differently than the classic version, and its decoration is also a perfect fit. The house’s Cézár (2,500 HUF) is also a fantasy: sous-vide baby chicken and romaine lettuce come on a separate plate. This is recommended for everyone who doesn’t fancy fatty bites.
We also tried the split-pea soup (1,200 HUF) brought to perfection with boiled eggs and chorizo. Quite possibly this was the most tender dish we tasted, but we prefer slightly braver aromas. KGB’s first menu also holds courses like tojásos nokedli (eggs and Hungarian noodles) with sausage and salad leaves for 1,250 forints, bacon with beer cabbage (2,450 HUF), or duck leg with potato pottage, goat cheese, and boiled eggs (2,750 HUF). One thing is for sure, we will definitely return to Kálvin Square for further culinary reconnaissance at KGB in the near future.
KGB - Kálvin Gastro Bistro
Address: Budapest 1053, Kálvin tér 5
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