Running along Buda’s leafy Gellért Hill, Ménesi Road is a pleasant strolling spot at any time of year, especially in the springtime or the fall. In addition to its refreshing natural surroundings, the area is noted for its significance in the Budapest art world: unique Magyar visionary Pál Molnár-C. lived and worked in one of the villas lining the scenic hillside street. Leaving a diverse range of artworks to posterity, the artist is remembered at the prestigious address of his former home and studio. Opened in 1984, the museum is run by the children and grandchildren of the renowned painter.

Visitors to the museum are invariably greeted by a member of the Molnár-C. family; the specific host depends on the time of your arrival. At present, the premises are in the hands of the third generation: during our visit, our guide was Péter Csillag, the grandson of the late artist.

Molnár-C. was based in the wing added to the villa from 1931 until his death in 1981: he lived on the bottom floor, and worked at the studio upstairs. Known as a fun-loving person, the artist allegedly used the walls of his pantry to experiment with hot-wax painting, and imitate the style of Pompeii frescos. Apparently, he was always interested in exchanging his paintings for the oddest things, and that’s how he started accumulating objects like clocks and crocodile skins in his versatile workspace.

This playfulness is clearly reflected on the “whistling” self-portrait of the artist, which is exhibited in the museum, and adorns many of its publications as well. Molnár-C. loved kids: children from the neighborhood often came over to play in his studio, and his grandchildren also tell fond tales of deep conversations and delicious lunches served at two o'clock sharp every afternoon. The artist would entertain his little guests by creating miniature machines or telling them about the most interesting aspects of painting. The spirit of community is still prominent at the hillside villa, with concerts and lectures being regularly organized here. The studio also hosts a weekly event where artists and intellectuals discuss Molnár-C.’s various paintings.

We began our tour in the studio where we could stand in front of the artist’s own easel, and “paint” with his old palette and paintbrush, which instantly created a kind of intellectual connection to Molnár-C. himself. He once said the 30-40 centimeters that the painter’s hand travels from the palette to the canvas is a magical distance that can “transform paint into color”.

Another part of the museum encompasses one of the family’s old apartments: here you can see a constantly updated selection of the artist’s oeuvre, so even those who’ve visited before can spot something new every time they return. The assortment of paintings showcases the exceptional variety of Molnár-C.’s artistry from early Renaissance elements to surreal, dreamlike images.The charming stories told by our knowledgeable host, and the museum’s one-of-a-kind atmosphere – with the spontaneous tea ceremony, the personal objects, and the surreal paintings – made us feel absolutely welcome. We realized it might be more than just the ever-changing selection of exhibited works that make art lovers come back here time and time again.
Pál Molnár-C. Studio and MuseumAddress: Budapest 1118, Ménesi utca 65
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