Unveiled just in time to sate communal Christmas thirst, BeerSelection comprises a 300-strong range of ales within one modestly sized outlet, beckoning passers-by on the Grand Boulevard near Blaha Lujza Square. The brainchild of expert digital entrepreneur Gábor Széll, this recently opened store is the result of a two-year old business initially operating as a subscription website. Now, rather than just surf and see, ale aficionados can browse bright shelves lined with wonderfully obscure brews, more than 200 from around Hungary, testament to today’s dynamic domestic craft-beer industry.

Surrounded by bottles of every shape, size and colour, lined on shelves underscored by little self-made flags denoting country of origin, BeerSelection supremo Gábor Széll tells WLB about his booming business, one that he stumbled across almost by accident.

“I graduated in Business Studies and was looking for an opportunity,” Gábor tells us, as his new store fills with customers on a busy Sunday afternoon before Christmas. “At the time, the trend in craft beer was just coming into fashion and it seemed like a good idea.”

A popular one, too. While online subscribers were being offered a wider and wider variety of artisanal ales, many produced around Hungary, Gábor was overcoming problems such as packaging and distribution.

The whole experience has stood him in good stead to open his smart BeerSelection store this October. With enough space for customers to sample the liquid goods – at least either side of the Christmas rush when the store isn’t packed and knowledgeable staff overwhelmed – Gábor’s Grand Boulevard venture stands within easy reach of the nightlife hub of District VII but he insists that it’s not his aim to be a barkeep. “I like to think of this as a bookshop approach to beer sales,” he says. “People come in, they browse, they sample, they might find something they like, or haven’t seen before, they buy.”

Opening hours are in keeping with smaller enterprise, from noon most days, from 2pm Saturdays through Mondays, and closing time at 8pm, 6pm Sundays. Customers can take home their bottles in a handy presentation box, order home delivery, even buy a logo’d T-shirt to impress their friends.

As for the beers, Gábor has concentrated his stock on Hungary – Mad Scientist, award-winning Szent András, Hedon, Fehér Nyúl – and the brewing nation most familiar to Hungarians, Belgium. The Czech Republic is also well represented, Scotland’s laudably successful Brewdog gets a look in, as do a few ales and stouts from England, namely Fuller’s from London and St. Peter’s from Suffolk. You’ll find Sierra Nevada from North Carolina, Stone beers from San Diego and Omnipollo from Sweden, otherwise America, Germany and Scandinavia take a back seat – there’s only so much space, and so much demand.

Some of the bottles are works of art – take a bow, Bigfoot of Domony near Gödöllő, with your classy Razzia labels – and make unusual welcome presents whatever the taste or flavor.

“We have enough room here to stock many more,” Gábor concludes, looking round at the neat white walls so far unsullied by gaudy advertising. “But we could do with an extra fridge.”