We can find a slice of ‘20s Americana behind a wooden door in Nyáry Pál Street: the speakeasy bar and restaurant named after one-time whiskey smuggler Fat Mo imitates the atmosphere of the Prohibition’s secret bars very well. Dinner begins at around six o’clock: steaks, hamburgers, and quesadillas leave the kitchen in attractive portions, and after a few glasses of whiskey, the dancing begins to the beat of live music.

We stepped behind that particular wooden door on a Friday night, and found ourselves in an elegant restaurant, furnished in a huge basement. At first look, it reminded us of the film Once Upon a Time in America, and as we settled into a booth covered with dark leather and glanced sideways to see the liquors lined up behind the bar and the waiters in white shirts and suspenders, the feeling only intensified. Although Robert De Niro did not make an appearance during the evening, the foods that we tasted made us forget about his absence.For appetizers, we ordered a tapas platter, from which we nominated the goose liver paté with truffles and the chili shrimp to be the winners of the night. After this strong start, we had high expectations for the main courses, namely two types of steak, a double burger, and tenderloin quesadillas. Needless to say, the steaks were a direct hit. The serving of the Oscar Steak proved to be a winning performance by itself: the medium-rare tenderloin arrived under a huge, smoke-covered, cognac-glass-like cover, alongside some parsnip puree and grilled porcini mushrooms.The steaks were as perfect as they can be: seared on the outside, while remaining pink, tender, and juicy on the inside. The seasoning was strong and mainly dominated by salt, but we could also sprinkle the meat with various spices. The double-decker, well-packed hamburger will certainly cure anyone’s hunger; the delicious combination of the two beef patties, bacon, cheddar cheese, and other toppings is a serious challenge. The burger is also seasoned with BBQ and guacamole sauce, from which a higher dose could make the dish even juicier.

In addition to the permanent pub menu, Fat Mo’s has a monthly chef’s offer as well, which features gourmet dishes such as wild-boar-stuffed cabbage in an iron skillet or leg of deer with potato fritters. But eating and drinking are not the only things to do here; every day, live music awaits guests, so you should not leave your dancing shoes at home. The atmosphere is truly captivating, as if everyone was part of a role-playing game, with indispensable add-ons of appetizing foods and premium drinks. The team of Fat Mo’s prepares for New Year’s Eve with a similar scenario: guests will be able to celebrate the new year with a four-course menu and a great party.