A few years ago, a Neapolitan pizza wave hit Budapest, and several new restaurants started popping up like mushrooms around the city. But while Budapest loves Neapolitan pizza, few people know that there are strict guidelines for creating the Italian treat. Just to mention a few: high-quality ingredients, long fermentation, a special technique to form a disc of dough, minimum 60 and maximum 90 seconds in the furnace and mamma mia, the pizza will be so perfectly thin in the middle with a raised edge, (the famous "cornicione") which is soft and crunchy at the same time, that it’s impossible not to fall in love with it. While at first glance, making Neapolitan pizza may sound simple, making it right is a culinary work of art.
Un pizzico di Napoli – a pinch of Naples
One of the founders, Miklós Raveczky, learned the art of pizza making from none other than renowned pizza master Fabio Cristiano in Italy – and this is how he brought that pinch of Naples all the way to Budapest. His co-founder, Dániel Simon, gained vast experience in the local pizza-making world, having worked at various popular places. At first, Neapolitan-to-the-bone Ciro Velluso joined them as well, and they still collaborate professionally on occasion. Fermento even received a certificate from Fabio Cristiano, which proves that pizzas made here are truly Neapolitan, and the rest is pizza history in the making.
It's absolutely apparent that Miklós and Dani both passionately love what they do, and this is one of the most important qualities of a good restaurant. Because if food is made with love, it shows.
Earlier this year, the pizzaiolo pair came 23rd at the Campionato Mondiale della Pizza world championship with their special Hungarian Goulash Pizza, which is noteworthy considering they participated in the competition for the first time and they aren’t remotely Italian – who normally secure the first few places. Fermento also has a sign proudly presented in the window, which announces that the restaurant is one of Hungary’s Top 10 pizza places.
Earlier this year, the pizzaiolo pair came 23rd at the Campionato Mondiale della Pizza world championship with their special Hungarian Goulash Pizza, which is noteworthy considering they participated in the competition for the first time and they aren’t remotely Italian – who normally secure the first few places. Fermento also has a sign proudly presented in the window, which announces that the restaurant is one of Hungary’s Top 10 pizza places.
Constantly fermenting, maturing and evolving
Over a year and a half since the opening, Fermento has earned plenty of regulars, and while we were there, delivery drivers were in and out of the restaurant constantly – which is a pretty good sign. To honour this loyalty – and to welcome new guests – Miklós and Dani always have something new up their sleeve. For instance, in addition to all-time favourites like the simple yet splendid Margherita pizza, or the Capricciosa topped with ham, mushrooms, olives and artichoke, they always come up with two specialty pizzas every two weeks.
Of course, we had to try these, so first we had a pizza topped with porcini mushrooms, pancetta and fior di latte – it was oh so delicious. Then, we tried another one with salami from Naples and ricotta, and this was interesting for two reasons: one is that the ricotta is flavoured with lemons from Naples and lemon jam from Sicily, and the other is the extra ricotta filled into the edges of the dough. So this pizza is extra creamy and crunchy and sweet and salty at the same time. Both pizzas will soon be available at Fermento.
From perfetto pizzas to Sicilian cannolo
At Fermento, Sicilian-style arancinis are also made, which means that the rice balls filled with all sorts of wonders are rolled in only breadcrumbs without eggs. We tried the cheese-and-mushroom arancini (soon to be featured on the menu) which was wonderfully creamy and crunchy at the same time. We couldn’t agree on which sauce goes best with it, the gorgonzola béchamel or the homemade tomato sauce. But this is one of the best things about Fermento: here, really everyone can find something to their liking.
The menu also includes vegan pizzas, and they can also be made gluten-free. In addition to these and the arancinis, fresh frittas, salads, calzones and prosciutto plates are also served at Fermento. When it comes to dessert, there are Sicilian cannolo, tiramisu, pistachio-ricotta cake, as well as vegan and gluten-free treats available.
As for the drink list, besides the usual beer, wine, lemonade and soft drinks selection, there are also natural wines and pét-nats, now-trendy Limoncello spritz and Peroni on tap, which is not available at too many places in Budapest but is super delicious.
As for the drink list, besides the usual beer, wine, lemonade and soft drinks selection, there are also natural wines and pét-nats, now-trendy Limoncello spritz and Peroni on tap, which is not available at too many places in Budapest but is super delicious.
At Fermento, the interior is minimalist, though a drawing on the wall gently reminds visitors of sunny Naples by the foot of Mount Vesuvius, but the focus here is rather on the food, which is definitely worth a try. Everyone is warmly welcome, whether you come with your friends, family, kids, dog or strange alien friend. Buon appetito!
