As fall gets ever chillier we decided to head out to Buda to visit our old favorites discovering some excellent new places along the way. Not to mention the other benefit of getting exhausted together with the kid as you push the pram up on long slopes. Our destination this time was the Margit Bridge-Széll Kálmán Square-Batthyány Square triangle.

Let’s start with Millenáris, as this is where we end up for the most part on our weekend stroll. In rainy weather we sit through one of the programs, or otherwise we are happy to loiter around in the park. We pay a visit to the gigantic gold fish, that can even be fed with fish food. In good weather you can roll down the hillside, or take part in a Bébi Kontakt.

We discovered the favorite of many, Zöld Péter playground only recently. Though itt shrunk a little and was moved due to the construction of an office building in its former place, its atmosphere is still as if you were in a Magyar népmesék (Hungarian folk tales) book. What could divert you from the magic is the thick layer of gravel spread over the most part of the playground. It makes moving with toddlers and prams problematic, so you might want to have a picnic on the lawn.

Of course, there had been life in the neighborhood of (then) Moszkva Square before the construction of Millenáris, only a little further, in the Marczibányi Téri Művelődési Központ. There is a great selection of programs offered for children varied by age and interest. Our favorite is the Sunday morning dancing for ages 1 to 7, where entertainment is granted by tales, rhymes, art workshops, and, of course, lots and lots of music from Gyimes and Moldavia.

It wasn’t long ago that we had the pleasant surprise of seeing how Lövőház Street, that starts behind Mammut, has become a lovely mall, and there is a growing number of shops there for kids or young moms. Our favorite is Lilliputi Bababolt (Lilliputi baby shop), where believers of environment conscious and attachment parenting can browse through things like slings, soft soled baby shoes, toys, washable diapers, and whatnot. Another shop we were drawn to was Berkenye Magyar Finomságok Boltja (Berkenye Hungarian shop of delicacies), where merely looking around is nice: different kinds of syrup, jams, fascinating gingerbread and strudel for the hungry wanderers as we are.

It wasn’t long ago that we had the pleasant surprise of seeing how Lövőház Street, that starts behind Mammut, has become a lovely mall, and there is a growing number of shops there for kids or young moms. Our favorite is Lilliputi Bababolt (Lilliputi baby shop), where believers of environment conscious and attachment parenting can browse through things like slings, soft soled baby shoes, toys, washable diapers, and whatnot. Another shop we were drawn to was Berkenye Magyar Finomságok Boltja (Berkenye Hungarian shop of delicacies), where merely looking around is nice: different kinds of syrup, jams, fascinating gingerbread and strudel for the hungry wanderers as we are.

As long as we’re talking about Széll Kálmán Square, we have to mention the CEU Babakutató Labor (baby research laboratory of CEU), which is located in Hattyú Ház (Hattyú House), and where we were regulars until my kid turned one. Research on the developmental processes of early childhood is conducted here, and those interested can join. Since it always meant joyful playtime for my kid, we put it on our list of fall/winter programs (unfortunately we can’t go any more due to age restrictions).

I suggest walking in the direction of Batthyány Square instead of the noise and stink of the Great Boulevard. Víziváros is especially suitable for looking around, exploring lovely streets, and surprising us with its sights. If you can’t rock your kid in the same dreamy, poetic state of mind, the Franklin utcai játszótér (Franklin Street playground) is a perfect place for a little moving around.

The peculiarity of the place is the firewall which is decorated with characters from Hungarian cartoons painted after the designs of Ferenc Sajdik. While the kid is swinging we are overwhelmed with nostalgia, and point enthusiastically at Nagy Ho-Ho Horgász, Pom-Pom, or even Leo and Fred. What’s great about this place is that it’s completely surrounded, and there is ample playground equipment for both smaller and bigger children, so all your kids can come together. The only drawback we could find was the steps of the baby slide, which were so distant that even a 3-year-old would’ve had a hard time climbing them. The playground is relatively big with lots of development toys, the morning atmosphere is homely, and at noon you can hear the bells ringing. However, there are not toilets here either, so after an implicit agreement the bushes at the far end have been used in its stead.

If your child is the type that dozes happily in its pram as long as there’s someone to rock them in the fresh air, the place to spend the time for the weary mother meanwhile should be Pöttyös Kávézó (Pöttyös Café) on the corner of Medve Street and Kacsa Street. The café itself is tiny with chairs mostly upstairs, but there’s a terrace with attractive colorful chairs, where you can have a coffee or a cake to take a little break, while gently rocking the pram.

If you’re done resting, set your way to the Buda side of Margit Bridge. Thought the most beautiful buildings are in Fő Street, we decided to walk the smaller streets to avoid the noise. It’s good to know, though, that the team of Tűzraktér moved to the vicinity, the Király Bath, where they run a place called Vízraktér. We went to their season opening children’s day, which was fantastic. We hope they’ll winterize, so that we can be regulars in the future.

If you’ve had enough of the endless walks and open-air programs, and wish for a more comfortable, reader-friendly atmosphere, you could drop by Kedd Shop at the beginning of Frankel Leo Street. You can browse through books and films about Mole, Mazsola, Kockásfülű nyúl (the rabbit with checkered ears), and, of course, Bogyó and Babóca, and you can also buy them on toys or clotes.

So nothing else is left to do but traveling home on the long yellow train. By the way, what’s the favorite vehicle of your kids?