Dining

Top Budapest pastry chef of Gerbeaud fame goes it alone

Photo : Gábor Szabó / We Love Budapest

A former head pastry chef at legendary café and cake shop Gerbeaud has just started a new venture in Óbuda. Along with his partner, designer Ágnes Varga, Zoltán Kolonics has opened Málna, set in the former Zazzi Confectionery on Kolosy tér. Here, surrounded by busy offices, Málna offers delicious original creations, such as salty peanut-apricot cake, a fresh take on classic cheesecake, and Le Rose d’Agnes involving Törley rosé champagne. Cookies, chocolate truffles and seasonal specials also feature.

The first half of 2018 has seen a revival in Buda gastronomy with new places opening almost every week. Now a long-awaited venue, Málna The Pastry Shop, unveiled by couple Zoltán Kolonics and Ágnes Varga, is brightening up the dessert scene on the more residential side of the river.

Photo: Gábor Szabó / We Love Budapest

According to Zoltán, once the head pastry chef at Gerbeaud and several five-star hotels, customers have been constantly asking his tasty creations seen at culinary events and on social media. So, when he was offered to take over this cake shop, he did not hesitate.

Photo: Gábor Szabó / We Love Budapest

The new confectionery is located in Óbuda, a few minutes’ walk from busy Kolosy tér. Ágnes is responsible for the design – a delicate interior of white and pink – while Zoltán makes the world-class pastries.

Photo: Gábor Szabó / We Love Budapest

There is a variety of French-style sweets with top-quality ingredients, and exciting takes on Hungarian classics. The couple is also planning to widen the repertoire with Swedish or Italian favourites, and ice cream, too.

Photo: Gábor Szabó / We Love Budapest

For the time being, though, you have plenty of choice, including raspberry, mango or passion fruit parfait, and a variation of Hungarian favourite, oroszkrém szelet. This popular cake with a rich, creamy filling and fresh whipped cream, is lifted to a new level by high-quality ingredients such as rum and Callebaut Velvet white chocolate.

 

Look out, too, for salty peanut-apricot cake, the fresh apricots beautifully complemented by the peanuts and smooth chocolate, all topped by a caramelised wafer with a peanut praline.

Photo: Gábor Szabó / We Love Budapest

 

Photo: Gábor Szabó / We Love Budapest

Another treat is a dessert made with sponge of almond flour, raspberry mousse and compote; a delightful combination of sweet and sour, pleasing on the eye. They’ve added a fresh twist to the cheesecake as well: it contains delicious strawberry jam, with a white chocolate ball on top.

Photo: Gábor Szabó / We Love Budapest

Coffee-raspberry cake, lemon tart or Le Rose d’Agnes with Törley rosé champagne, named after Zoltán’s muse, are well worth tasting, too. All these desserts cost 950 HUF each. Guests with food allergies are not left out, as Málna always offers grain-, milk-, egg-, and sugar-free alternatives.

Photo: Gábor Szabó / We Love Budapest

Besides these mouthwatering desserts, Málna also has a variety of sweet and salty cookies (anise-meringue, lemony sable, cheddar-cheese, triple-chocolate), fruit cake, chocolate truffles (150 HUF a piece) and macarons (300 HUF each). The selection will regularly have seasonal specials, too, and Zoltán is preparing with an amazing Sachertorte variation for the colder months.

Málna The Pastry Shop
  • 1037 Budapest, Bécsi út 57-61.
  • Tues-Sun: 10 am-6 pm