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Around Budapest - Articles

5 ways to see the communist past of Budapest

Photo: Nick Robertson/We Love Budapest

Friday, July 10, 2015 — Nick Robertson

The proletariat of Hungary remains united in enjoying some time off every May 1st, for this is International Workers’ Day – and although this date is primarily observed here in the present as an ancient celebration of springtime fertility and maypoles, the holiday’s former co-option by the country’s Soviet controllers still leaves a strong impression on May Day over a quarter century since the regime change in 1989. In fact, traces of Hungary’s era under communism remain visible all throughout the country’s capital city - here are some prime places to observe Budapest’s collectivist history.

Museums

Photo: House of Terror

House of Terror Museum

1062 Budapest, Andrássy út 60.
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After Hungary’s occupation by Russia’s Red Army in the concluding months of World War II, the nation remained under direct control of the Kremlin until regime change finally arrived in 1989 (aside from during the all-too-brief 1956 Revolution). These decades of Soviet-dominated history are amply chronicled at several Budapest museums – the House of Terror displays the era’s darkest aspects within the building once occupied by the country’s communist secret police; the Hospital in the Rock shows what it was like inside a Soviet-era bunker; and the Budapest History Museum has an extensive permanent exhibit of life in the city from 1945 to 1989.

Statues

Photo: Wikimedia

Memento Park

1223 Budapest, Balatoni út - Szabadkai utca sarok
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During Hungary’s communist era, state-sponsored sculptures popped up across Budapest and nationwide, usually celebrating working-class heroes or Russia’s WWII victory – and while most of these statues were taken down after the regime change (with many of the biggest of them now on view in Memento Park), some stone-and-metal artworks of those years are still prominently standing. The most famous of them all is the Liberation Monument atop Gellért Hill (pictured), now internationally recognized as an iconic symbol of Budapest; meanwhile, Szabadság Square still features a controversial obelisk bearing the Soviet hammer-and-sickle symbol.

Antique shops

Photo: Nick Robertson/We Love Budapest

Ecseri market

1194 Budapest, Nagykőrösi út 156.
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Genuine artifacts from Hungary’s communist times are available in several Budapest antique shops, ranging from tiny trinkets (like star-shaped medals for dedicated workers) to oversized mementos such as busts of Marx and Lenin. Just steps away from Blaha Square, Antik-Bazár features a colorful hodgepodge of comrade-worthy collectibles like discontinued currency, propaganda posters, and military regalia; a similar stock awaits at the Nosztalgia Bazár near the Dohány Street Synagogue. However, the best source of Red-tinted antiques is probably the Ecseri flea market, where the ever-changing secondhand collection contains unpredictable surprises.

Restaurants

Photo: László Balkányi/We Love Budapest

Kádár Étkezde

1072 Budapest, Klauzál tér 9.
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A few classic Budapest eateries serve as tasteful time machines transporting diners back to Hungary’s era under communism by preserving their decades-old retro ambiences. In Buda, the sparely decorated neon-lit Bambi Presszó is a longtime haunt for loitering intellectuals nursing cups of coffee from morning till night, while Pest’s Kádár Étkezde is a lunch hall where customary Hungarian cuisine is provided with a bottle of soda water on each red-checked tabletop – and although it isn’t an authentic holdover from communist times, Táskarádió doubles as a museum of Hungarian curios from the 1960s and ’70s, from Soviet-made appliances to tin toys.

Tours

Photo: Free Budapest Walking Tours

What better way to learn about Hungary’s communist past than by speaking with Magyars who lived through it? Budapest’s popular Fungarian tour company pairs private groups with professional guides who share detailed memories of what everyday life was like here before 1989, while showcasing some aforementioned destinations like Bambi Presszó or the Ecseri flea market. For a more general overview of Budapest’s remaining communist sights, Free Budapest Tours presents an interesting overview of remnants and monuments, including the bridge-based statue of Imre Nagy (pictured above) – the leader of Hungary’s 1956 Revolution against Soviet oppression.

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